Wheel bearing hub assembly
- Thread starter Dmflash
- Start date
Mooseman
Moderator
Crappy Tire? Nope. I try to stay away from them as much as possible. Who knows who makes them and are usually overpriced.
There's SKF on Amazon that's pretty reasonable right now but the reviews, especially the later ones, aren't good.
There's also Moog. No personal experience however a little more expensive and reviews are better.
And of course there's Timken.
If you're not in a hurry, I would look at getting them from RockAuto but watch out for the shipping charges compared to the all-in price at Amazon or the local parts store. And you can get a 5% discount code here.
There's SKF on Amazon that's pretty reasonable right now but the reviews, especially the later ones, aren't good.
There's also Moog. No personal experience however a little more expensive and reviews are better.
And of course there's Timken.
If you're not in a hurry, I would look at getting them from RockAuto but watch out for the shipping charges compared to the all-in price at Amazon or the local parts store. And you can get a 5% discount code here.
Chickenhawk
Member
- Dec 6, 2011
- 782
Canadian Tire wheel hubs are made by the same companies that manufacture most wheel hubs that are simply rebranded. The thing to remember is that most China-made auto parts come in two (and sometimes three) lines: the economy line; the premium line and sometimes one grade up line. For example, the Pro Series OE hubs are listed by Canadian Tire as a "mid-grade" replacement, but they are an economy line hub. They are the same as the economy line hubs as listed in Rock Auto. (It looks like the same company that makes the Power Stop line.)
SKF and Moog have two lines as well, but Rock Auto only carries the upper line of Moog. SKF has been spotty lately, and if you compare the photos, their upper-line seem to be lower quality than the Moog or Timken.
Some companies go up one more level and these are sometimes listed as "heavy duty" or OEM line. (Actual OEM, not "OEM" in the name.)
This is why reading online reviews are difficult. Most people buy the economy lines, and this is where the reviews, like "crap" and "avoid" come from. The Canadian Tire Pro Series OE is an economy line, which makes them pricey in comparison to the premium line hubs like Moog and Timken.
Mevotech (which is a Canadian company) had some crappy economy line parts for years, but often a decent premium line. The past few years, they have been going their own way and not simply rebranding China-made parts. For example, the Mevotech TTX hubs seem really good quality. I have had Mevotech TTX hubs for a few years, and have not had an issue. The quality of the TTX line is impressive. The previous SKF only lasted about three years.
Mevotech has been increasing the quality of their mid and premium lines the past few years, so if money is an issue, I would probably try their H513188HW hub. If you want to get up one more line in quality, go to the TTX.
Personally, I would buy on price. For hubs, I would personally avoid anything under $150 Cdn. For roughly $150 to $180 Cdn, I would go with Moog, Timken or Mevotech TTX.
The Canadian Tire Pro Series OE is just an economy hub that is overpriced, and compares to the $50 Power Stop hub.
SKF and Moog have two lines as well, but Rock Auto only carries the upper line of Moog. SKF has been spotty lately, and if you compare the photos, their upper-line seem to be lower quality than the Moog or Timken.
Some companies go up one more level and these are sometimes listed as "heavy duty" or OEM line. (Actual OEM, not "OEM" in the name.)
This is why reading online reviews are difficult. Most people buy the economy lines, and this is where the reviews, like "crap" and "avoid" come from. The Canadian Tire Pro Series OE is an economy line, which makes them pricey in comparison to the premium line hubs like Moog and Timken.
Mevotech (which is a Canadian company) had some crappy economy line parts for years, but often a decent premium line. The past few years, they have been going their own way and not simply rebranding China-made parts. For example, the Mevotech TTX hubs seem really good quality. I have had Mevotech TTX hubs for a few years, and have not had an issue. The quality of the TTX line is impressive. The previous SKF only lasted about three years.
Mevotech has been increasing the quality of their mid and premium lines the past few years, so if money is an issue, I would probably try their H513188HW hub. If you want to get up one more line in quality, go to the TTX.
Personally, I would buy on price. For hubs, I would personally avoid anything under $150 Cdn. For roughly $150 to $180 Cdn, I would go with Moog, Timken or Mevotech TTX.
The Canadian Tire Pro Series OE is just an economy hub that is overpriced, and compares to the $50 Power Stop hub.
Whenever I read folks complaining about wheel hubs I immediately wonder, are they running factory wheels/tire sizes? Or are they overloading the design specs of the hubs with oversized wheels, tires, etc.?
I am of a different opinion for the wheel hub bearing assemblies.
Its not a matter of if, but when it will fail again.
Find a local parts store that offers a lifetime warranty, and go with that. You will pay more likely, but if you keep it a long time, it will pay for itself
I used to recommend Detroit Axle... But after my recent failures, and others on the board, after low miles.. I cant do it anymore.
Its not a matter of if, but when it will fail again.
Find a local parts store that offers a lifetime warranty, and go with that. You will pay more likely, but if you keep it a long time, it will pay for itself
I used to recommend Detroit Axle... But after my recent failures, and others on the board, after low miles.. I cant do it anymore.
Mooseman
Moderator
I have to disagree here. Although not their hub, I have had their TTX ball joint and outer tie rod fail on me. Have had their inner tie rods from their premium line fail and received an outer tie rod with a crack right out of the box. I have ZERO faith in them to produce anything of quality.
Where abouts do you live? Like what province? I’m in Alberta and I get most of my stuff from “action automotive”. It’s a ACDelco parts store that deal with GM vehicles mostly and they sell OEM equipment and other brands
Mooseman
Moderator
LikeEnvoy
Member
My front bearing just began growling above 40KPH and thanks to the posts here and a good video on you tube I'm fairly certain now that it's the early sign of a bearing going. Not 100% sure but think its the passenger side; turning steering to right quietens a bit and to left increases the sound a bit. I can feel a slight rumbling through the pedal and steering too, but not much. Mainly it's the sound that just started out of the blue a couple of days ago.
***
I, also, was wondering about the Canadian Tire line because of Rock Auto's shipping on wheel hubs, but thanks to your input I'll order a couple of the Timken hubs from Amazon with free shipping.
Good info from your experiences!
p.s. I have 264,000 on the clock so it's not done badly!
***
I, also, was wondering about the Canadian Tire line because of Rock Auto's shipping on wheel hubs, but thanks to your input I'll order a couple of the Timken hubs from Amazon with free shipping.
Good info from your experiences!
p.s. I have 264,000 on the clock so it's not done badly!
Chickenhawk
Member
- Dec 6, 2011
- 782
Good plan. Those are exactly the early symptoms, and strangely enough, the traditional way to decide which side is not always best on our platform. We have had just as many people in here thinking it is one side because it is quieter in the turn toward that side, and then finding out it was the other side. Myself included.
At the mileage, replacing both is the best course of action. Plus, if you have ever started to feel a little ABS kick in on slow stops, it will cure that too.
At the mileage, replacing both is the best course of action. Plus, if you have ever started to feel a little ABS kick in on slow stops, it will cure that too.
Good evening.
I am grateful that there is always necessary information.
I have finished the "replacement of universal joints" that I had not planned.
I was trying to start the "addition of AT coolers and replace the parking brake shoe and hardware kit" that I originally planned.
However, this time, "probably" noise was generated from the front passenger side.
There is also vibration on the accelerator pedal.
The sound is like a bad old MT tire hitting the ground. (I have MT tires, but it's very quiet)
I tried to rotate the tires, but it does not rotate reliably compared to the driver's side.
And to check backlash, I shaked up and down and left and right.
There was no problem at all.
When I removed the tires and examined, the Flat Spring part of the brake retaining clip was broken.
When the brake caliper was removed, adjusted, and installed, the tires rotated like the driver's seat side.
I tested it, but the sound became louder at 5-60㎞/h(31-37mph), and it became quiet at 80㎞/h(50mph).
I'm going to replace the wheel hub.
I am grateful that there is always necessary information.
I have finished the "replacement of universal joints" that I had not planned.
I was trying to start the "addition of AT coolers and replace the parking brake shoe and hardware kit" that I originally planned.
However, this time, "probably" noise was generated from the front passenger side.
There is also vibration on the accelerator pedal.
The sound is like a bad old MT tire hitting the ground. (I have MT tires, but it's very quiet)
I tried to rotate the tires, but it does not rotate reliably compared to the driver's side.
And to check backlash, I shaked up and down and left and right.
There was no problem at all.
When I removed the tires and examined, the Flat Spring part of the brake retaining clip was broken.
When the brake caliper was removed, adjusted, and installed, the tires rotated like the driver's seat side.
I tested it, but the sound became louder at 5-60㎞/h(31-37mph), and it became quiet at 80㎞/h(50mph).
I'm going to replace the wheel hub.
I will exclude Rockauto's economy line.
A standard line is looking for heavy duty.
I'm thinking about Timken, BCA, Mevoteck TTX, etc.
Is there something more economical and equivalent to these?
ACDELCO 513188a Gold $ 161.79
GM GENUINE FW121 $ 170.79
I think this is the right choice,
SKF BR930397 $ 210.79
This is more expensive than genuine, but is it high quality?
When I read the thread, I am a little anxious.
Timken 513188 $ 129.79
This also seems to be trusted like genuine.
Still, Amazon has a bad report.
MOOG 513188 $ 116.79
I watched a mechanic video that states that MOOG and Timken are reliable Hub.
BCA WE60887 $ 144.89
This manufacturer looked up NTN.
I think NTN is a reliable bearing maker, but isn't the evaluation so good?
HEAVY DUTY
Mevotech TXF513188 TTX $ 110.89
The only heavy duty
It is TTX of Mevoteck.
This is low. With HD, will it be an appropriate choice when wearing big tires?
A standard line is looking for heavy duty.
I'm thinking about Timken, BCA, Mevoteck TTX, etc.
Is there something more economical and equivalent to these?
ACDELCO 513188a Gold $ 161.79
GM GENUINE FW121 $ 170.79
I think this is the right choice,
SKF BR930397 $ 210.79
This is more expensive than genuine, but is it high quality?
When I read the thread, I am a little anxious.
Timken 513188 $ 129.79
This also seems to be trusted like genuine.
Still, Amazon has a bad report.
MOOG 513188 $ 116.79
I watched a mechanic video that states that MOOG and Timken are reliable Hub.
BCA WE60887 $ 144.89
This manufacturer looked up NTN.
I think NTN is a reliable bearing maker, but isn't the evaluation so good?
HEAVY DUTY
Mevotech TXF513188 TTX $ 110.89
The only heavy duty
It is TTX of Mevoteck.
This is low. With HD, will it be an appropriate choice when wearing big tires?
I have had good luck with Detroit Axle wheel bearings..
I have 3 DA wheel bearings on my Aztek
I have 3 DA wheel bearings on my Saturn
I have 2 DA wheel bearings on my Envoy..
Not suggesting you buy them. but something to think about.
I have 3 DA wheel bearings on my Aztek
I have 3 DA wheel bearings on my Saturn
I have 2 DA wheel bearings on my Envoy..
Not suggesting you buy them. but something to think about.
thank you
Detroit Axel has recently stopped shipping from Amazon to Japan.
I was able to buy it before, but recently all Detroit Axel products can no longer be put in the cart.
Also, I remember seeing Prof.mooseman's post a long time ago.
PowerStop Kinetic also wrote that it was economical and reliable, but Amazon was refused to check out, even though the shipment to Japan was $ 30.
I think he also said that Mevotech was Mevojunk.
Detroit Axel has recently stopped shipping from Amazon to Japan.
I was able to buy it before, but recently all Detroit Axel products can no longer be put in the cart.
Also, I remember seeing Prof.mooseman's post a long time ago.
PowerStop Kinetic also wrote that it was economical and reliable, but Amazon was refused to check out, even though the shipment to Japan was $ 30.
I think he also said that Mevotech was Mevojunk.
Mooseman
Moderator
ACDelco and GM are overpriced IMHO. SKF are WAAAAY overpriced and have seen bad reviews lately that their quality has gone down considerably. I've always had good success with Timken and are reasonably priced. Have also heard good things about Moog hubs but I don't have any personal experience with them. And you know my opinions of Mevo *cough cough* junk, even their TTX line.
Before you spend time and money on the hubs, make sure they're going bad. Remove the wheels and brakes and spin them by hand. You should hear or feel NOTHING. When they start making noise while driving, you will hear and feel it by hand.
Before you spend time and money on the hubs, make sure they're going bad. Remove the wheels and brakes and spin them by hand. You should hear or feel NOTHING. When they start making noise while driving, you will hear and feel it by hand.
thank you.
I also want to determine the cause of the trouble.
I removed the tires and brake calipers and rotated the wheel hub. Because there is a CV axle, it will not rotate unless you keep applying force, but there is no abnormal noise and unusual resistance.
In the spring, I all replaced the suspension, shock, upper and lower arms, ball joints, tie rods, Stabilink, bush,etc. The rest was scheduled to be replaced next year.（hub&CVaxle,seal,etc,）
In the replacement of these and universal joints, there may be some problems somewhere due to the wrong maintenance.
Since the rear has renewed the suspension -related, there may be problems with pinion angles.
My head and wallet are screaming.
I also want to determine the cause of the trouble.
I removed the tires and brake calipers and rotated the wheel hub. Because there is a CV axle, it will not rotate unless you keep applying force, but there is no abnormal noise and unusual resistance.
In the spring, I all replaced the suspension, shock, upper and lower arms, ball joints, tie rods, Stabilink, bush,etc. The rest was scheduled to be replaced next year.（hub&CVaxle,seal,etc,）
In the replacement of these and universal joints, there may be some problems somewhere due to the wrong maintenance.
Since the rear has renewed the suspension -related, there may be problems with pinion angles.
My head and wallet are screaming.
Mooseman
Moderator
Be sure to check the axle disconnect that's on the oil pan. It could be the source of the noise and any possible 4x4 issues.
Is the rotation of the tire forced to move the differential?
Maybe in 2WD, if I move the right tires, will the left tires move?
If so, it may be a problem.
thank you.
Maybe in 2WD, if I move the right tires, will the left tires move?
If so, it may be a problem.
thank you.
In 2WD, the fronts should not be locked to anything and you should be able to readily spin either tire while it is in the air. IF your hub is a problem, you will feel the "lack of smooth" as the tire is rotated by hand "carefully".
I think I should have noticed faster.
When I investigated, I jacked the front and turned the tires on 2WD.
I was distracted by the brake because the brakes were dragging.
Perhaps the opposite tires were rotating.
(In the case of 2WD, the tires on the other side do not rotate, right?)
First, remove the 4WD actuator in the disconnect.
Make sure the pins inside move.
If it does not work(if it is already pushed in), it may be only a disconnect problem . (Although there is a possibility of both)
However, if the pin moves, it may be a front differential problem.
The problem may be bigger.
Thank you for your advice.
When I investigated, I jacked the front and turned the tires on 2WD.
I was distracted by the brake because the brakes were dragging.
Perhaps the opposite tires were rotating.
(In the case of 2WD, the tires on the other side do not rotate, right?)
First, remove the 4WD actuator in the disconnect.
Make sure the pins inside move.
If it does not work(if it is already pushed in), it may be only a disconnect problem . (Although there is a possibility of both)
However, if the pin moves, it may be a front differential problem.
The problem may be bigger.
Thank you for your advice.
The topic is far from the wheel hub bearing, but I'm sorry.
I plan to check the disconnect on Saturday, but if this was broken, which brand would it be better to replace it?
I don't think it's as severe as a wheel hub, but is it still the highest quality?
Rockauto is about $ 200-450.
Forged forks are the most expensive.
Amazon and ebay have a lot of less than $ 200.
What is the quality required for disconnect?
Should I buy a $ 450 thing?
I plan to check the disconnect on Saturday, but if this was broken, which brand would it be better to replace it?
I don't think it's as severe as a wheel hub, but is it still the highest quality?
Rockauto is about $ 200-450.
Forged forks are the most expensive.
Amazon and ebay have a lot of less than $ 200.
What is the quality required for disconnect?
Should I buy a $ 450 thing?
In 2wd, the front is not connected to anything... the wheels are free. jack up one side only... turn the wheel / tire. It will turn. Again, feel careful the wheel turning / listen carefully. IF necessary, take off the caliper / brake pads so the wheel can turn without any disturbance of hardware. If things are "smooth", then it is unlikely that your hub has a problem. Check the other side that same way.
On Saturday, there was only PieceMeal Time, but I investigated.
I switched 2WD and 4WD several times.
The front has been jacked up.
The tires rotated on the left and right independently.
The front propeller shaft also rotates alone.
However, when the tires on the driver's seat are rotated, the front propeller shaft rotates very little by little.
I removed the 4WD actuator.
The pin moves.
I installed the actuator again.
I removed the brake caliper.
When I rotate the tires, it makes noise on the front differential side.
I can't hear it near the hub.
There is noise from the 4WD disconnect.
I touched the tapered neck, which vibrates the most.
The disconnect or CV joint could not be removed.
At the moment, the possibility of disconnect may be the highest.
(If it's not a differential.)
I switched 2WD and 4WD several times.
The front has been jacked up.
The tires rotated on the left and right independently.
The front propeller shaft also rotates alone.
However, when the tires on the driver's seat are rotated, the front propeller shaft rotates very little by little.
I removed the 4WD actuator.
The pin moves.
I installed the actuator again.
I removed the brake caliper.
When I rotate the tires, it makes noise on the front differential side.
I can't hear it near the hub.
There is noise from the 4WD disconnect.
I touched the tapered neck, which vibrates the most.
The disconnect or CV joint could not be removed.
At the moment, the possibility of disconnect may be the highest.
(If it's not a differential.)
Attachments
I removed the axle disconnect and CVAXLE today because the parts I ordered two weeks ago did not arrive yet.
Rotating the removed axle dysconnect will cause strange noise and vibration.
Since there is no new disconnect, I removed the CV AXLE and attached the old disconnect to the vehicle again.
The hole was wrapped with a plastic wrap and covered with duct tape.
(Probably, I judged that there was no problem.)
However, unfortunately, the noise when driving did not resolve.
There is no abnormality in the wheel hub with the tires removed, but I think you have to replace the wheel hub.
If the noise is not resolved by replacing the wheel hub, it may be a replaced universal joint or pinion angle.
There may be other causes.
The change was made a few months ago, but there was no problem even if I drove more than 1000 km.
It is very disappointing.
Rotating the removed axle dysconnect will cause strange noise and vibration.
Since there is no new disconnect, I removed the CV AXLE and attached the old disconnect to the vehicle again.
The hole was wrapped with a plastic wrap and covered with duct tape.
(Probably, I judged that there was no problem.)
However, unfortunately, the noise when driving did not resolve.
There is no abnormality in the wheel hub with the tires removed, but I think you have to replace the wheel hub.
If the noise is not resolved by replacing the wheel hub, it may be a replaced universal joint or pinion angle.
There may be other causes.
The change was made a few months ago, but there was no problem even if I drove more than 1000 km.
It is very disappointing.
Mooseman
Moderator
You could have left the axles and disconnect out. You also just have to pull out the intermediate shaft which is in the oil pan behind the disconnect. You can use Gatorade caps to plug the holes. Please follow this link and check the threads in the 4x4 section on disabling 4x4/AWD.
gmtnation.com
FAQ: Drivetrain
This sticky is for links to the most asked about questions, info, specs and general knowledge of the Drivetrain. If you see a thread that should be considered to be added here, click on the button with a note indicating that it should be added. General Drivetrain fluids specifications...
gmtnation.com
thank you. I think I read that part quite a bit. However, it is very doubtful that everything is accurately understood. There are many parts that I didn't understand, and I often understand the wrong understanding.
Recent Google often translates without translating quite important words.
In a technical commentary, it is a translation method that becomes inaccurate.
What is the reason for pulling out the InterMediate shaft?
With the CV axle and the disconnect attached, I saw the thread writing to turn off 4WD. It was a way to make 2WD permanently.
Is it for that?
Is it possible that the INTERMEDIATE shaft is caused by an abnormal noise in a 2WD?
I thought that if I had a 2WD, the InterMediate shaft was not moving.
Is this correct?
For this assumption, when I removed CVAXLE, I erased the possibility of a differential cause.
Also, the point that I do not understand is that the INTERMEDIATE shaft is missing, what is the hole?
I was worried about the leakage of the gear oil from here, but would I attach a Gatorade bottle cap from under the car?
I also understood that the bottle cap of the Gatorade was attached to the CVAXLE insertion hole on the driver's seat.
Is it possible to do it elsewhere?
Is it a hole outside the disconnect?
Is it possible to access the hole (differential) when the INTERMEDIATE shaft is removed?
I imagined that the hole in the oil pan was just a tunnel and there was no need to worry (protect) something.
Postscript
Unfortunately, Gatorade is not sold in Japan.
Withdrawal in 2015.
If I really need it, I can buy one bottle for 2500 yen ($ 17) by online shopping. The list price of cola is about 120 yen. One case (24can) in Costco is 1400 yen.
Recent Google often translates without translating quite important words.
In a technical commentary, it is a translation method that becomes inaccurate.
What is the reason for pulling out the InterMediate shaft?
With the CV axle and the disconnect attached, I saw the thread writing to turn off 4WD. It was a way to make 2WD permanently.
Is it for that?
Is it possible that the INTERMEDIATE shaft is caused by an abnormal noise in a 2WD?
I thought that if I had a 2WD, the InterMediate shaft was not moving.
Is this correct?
For this assumption, when I removed CVAXLE, I erased the possibility of a differential cause.
Also, the point that I do not understand is that the INTERMEDIATE shaft is missing, what is the hole?
I was worried about the leakage of the gear oil from here, but would I attach a Gatorade bottle cap from under the car?
I also understood that the bottle cap of the Gatorade was attached to the CVAXLE insertion hole on the driver's seat.
Is it possible to do it elsewhere?
Is it a hole outside the disconnect?
Is it possible to access the hole (differential) when the INTERMEDIATE shaft is removed?
I imagined that the hole in the oil pan was just a tunnel and there was no need to worry (protect) something.
Postscript
Unfortunately, Gatorade is not sold in Japan.
Withdrawal in 2015.
If I really need it, I can buy one bottle for 2500 yen ($ 17) by online shopping. The list price of cola is about 120 yen. One case (24can) in Costco is 1400 yen.
Mooseman
Moderator
If it happens to be spinning either by the other shaft or the front driveshaft, it can flop around and cause damage. If disabling 4x4, it's better to pull it out unless you pull both axles and the front driveshaft.
I guess you mean "Is it possible that the INTERMEDIATE shaft is causing an abnormal noise in a 2WD?"
Yes, it's possible if it's damaged while spinning.
You are correct, I am mistaken. You would leave the intermediate shaft in place to prevent leakage from the differential. However you would need to remove the front driveshaft, the one that goes from the transfer case to the front differential, to prevent all possibility of the differential of being turned.
The bottle cap would be inserted like this:
It doesn't have to be an actual Gatorade cap. It can be any plastic cap of a similar diameter to plug that hole. Supposedly 1 gallon/4L coolant caps may be of the same size. It's mostly to prevent contaminants from entering the differential.
The other side you can reinstall the disconnect and use a cap there too.
Thank you for your patience for advice.
I may have made a basic mistake.
(I didn't understand the basic knowledge)
Even in the 2WD state
It is normal for the intermediate shaft to rotate with CVAXLE on the driver's side.
Is this correct?
This knowledge corrects various misunderstandings.
thank you.
>It doesn't have to be an actual Gatorade cap.
I understand (laughs)
However, there are not many large plastic bottles around me, so I will look for a caliper.
I may have made a basic mistake.
(I didn't understand the basic knowledge)
Even in the 2WD state
It is normal for the intermediate shaft to rotate with CVAXLE on the driver's side.
Is this correct?
This knowledge corrects various misunderstandings.
thank you.
>It doesn't have to be an actual Gatorade cap.
I understand (laughs)
However, there are not many large plastic bottles around me, so I will look for a caliper.
Mooseman
Moderator
It does from the spider gears in the differential being turned by the driver's side CV axle. So if the disconnect is damaged and the intermediate shaft is spinning inside of it, it could cause some noise. If the intermediate shaft itself is also damaged, as per these pictures, it can cause noise and damage to the disconnect.
Mooseman
Moderator
Here's a good thread on a bad intermediate shaft and disconnect:
gmtnation.com
Buick Rainier bad Intermediate Bearing Assembly or Differential
Hi technicians, I have an 04 Rainier with AWD only. They AWD went out last year. I have read posts on this site and others covering the last ten years on disconnect and actuator failures. With the vehicle on blocks and running the forward driveshaft turns and some bad sounds are coming from...
gmtnation.com
thank you.
Even if the disconnect was the cause, I found out why the noise was not solved.
Wait for the parts to arrive and work again.
I've been reading the 4WD section for a long time.
I want to replace the disconnect while the spline exists.
and,
I am very determined to apply Anti-Seize like Lockite8008 to the contact part of the disconnect and oil pan.
Thank you very much.
Even if the disconnect was the cause, I found out why the noise was not solved.
Wait for the parts to arrive and work again.
I've been reading the 4WD section for a long time.
I want to replace the disconnect while the spline exists.
and,
I am very determined to apply Anti-Seize like Lockite8008 to the contact part of the disconnect and oil pan.
Thank you very much.
I started getting the "push-back", and checked my front hubs. I was going to replace a bad hub but both front hubs felt good, no play, no noise when spinning, no growl. Another possible reason, I was told was that the sensor may be pushed out a touch by rust buildup on the mounting surface.
Latest situation
Purchased parts
4WD disconnect: Arrival
CVAXLE: Not arrived
work
Replaced to a new 4WD disconnect.
Status of improvement of problems
At low speed: smoother than before.
50-60㎞h: There is noise and vibration.
Next work
Removal of CVAXLE on the driver side.
Confirm the noise in the situation where the front differential does not rotate.
Mental state of worker
down
Purchased parts
4WD disconnect: Arrival
CVAXLE: Not arrived
work
Replaced to a new 4WD disconnect.
Status of improvement of problems
At low speed: smoother than before.
50-60㎞h: There is noise and vibration.
Next work
Removal of CVAXLE on the driver side.
Confirm the noise in the situation where the front differential does not rotate.
Mental state of worker
down
I just went thru a thing where I swore I had a bad wheel bearing, or axle, or disconnect... I had noise, a vibration, etc. Wheel bearings (front and rear) replaced, U-Joints (front and rear) replaced. 4x4 system removed from the equation (CVAxles, front drive shaft, and more.. Still had the vibration.
It was a out of balance rear drive shaft. I replaced a lot of parts before I got that figured out.
It was a out of balance rear drive shaft. I replaced a lot of parts before I got that figured out.
thank you.
I am currently on your way.
The minor injury list was almost denied.
There are only a few remaining.
After checking the list, the next is a serious injury list.
I tried it several times, but I heard a sound from under the passenger seat, so I investigated from the front side.
The front hub bearing has not been replaced yet.
However, even if the tires were rotated by jacking up, there was no noise or vibration, so the replacement was postponed.
The possibility of hub bearing remains slightly.
If the sound disappears after removing the cvaxle,
Front differential, if so, I might lose my mind (laughs)
I had never thought of the balance of the drive shaft.
This is because there was no dent that could be seen.
Is there a good way to check the balance?
However, the rear drive shaft was thinking about how to take a video while driving.
I wanted to check if there were any abnormalities in the rotation of the drive shaft.
This year, I replaced the rear leveling spacer with MOOG81069, replaced the universal joint, and attached a adjusted control arm to the rear.
I am not confident in adjusting the pinion angle I did myself.
In addition, almost all suspension -related items have been replaced.
I ran more than 2000km, but during that time it was fine.
Recently, I have loaded a lot of luggage and traveled about 300 km round -trip with the rear springs sinking a little.
After that, the noise was heard.
I was thinking about the possibility of the rear hub bearing or other bearings.
If I can fix my smartphone to the chassis with a duct tape, I may be able to confirm it.
But I may lose communication means.
I am currently on your way.
The minor injury list was almost denied.
There are only a few remaining.
After checking the list, the next is a serious injury list.
I tried it several times, but I heard a sound from under the passenger seat, so I investigated from the front side.
The front hub bearing has not been replaced yet.
However, even if the tires were rotated by jacking up, there was no noise or vibration, so the replacement was postponed.
The possibility of hub bearing remains slightly.
If the sound disappears after removing the cvaxle,
Front differential, if so, I might lose my mind (laughs)
I had never thought of the balance of the drive shaft.
This is because there was no dent that could be seen.
Is there a good way to check the balance?
However, the rear drive shaft was thinking about how to take a video while driving.
I wanted to check if there were any abnormalities in the rotation of the drive shaft.
This year, I replaced the rear leveling spacer with MOOG81069, replaced the universal joint, and attached a adjusted control arm to the rear.
I am not confident in adjusting the pinion angle I did myself.
In addition, almost all suspension -related items have been replaced.
I ran more than 2000km, but during that time it was fine.
Recently, I have loaded a lot of luggage and traveled about 300 km round -trip with the rear springs sinking a little.
After that, the noise was heard.
I was thinking about the possibility of the rear hub bearing or other bearings.
If I can fix my smartphone to the chassis with a duct tape, I may be able to confirm it.
But I may lose communication means.
Being that most of the automobiles in Japan are Front Wheel Drive, its the same here in the USA, I had to find a shop that deals with large commercial trucks. They were able to help me.
thank you.
As you say, many cars are 2WD, but the prefecture where I live is in the northern country, and winter is the world of snow and ice.
Even a luxury car is 4WD. Above all, it is suicide to run on the ice road with RWD.
However, when I searched, only the lace car tuning shop was advertising the balance of the shaft on the web. (Distant)
Perhaps it's not a general task for individuals, so you may need to find information between car repairers. But there are many things to do before the balance of the shaft.
It's already in winter and my car is now RWD.
As you say, many cars are 2WD, but the prefecture where I live is in the northern country, and winter is the world of snow and ice.
Even a luxury car is 4WD. Above all, it is suicide to run on the ice road with RWD.
However, when I searched, only the lace car tuning shop was advertising the balance of the shaft on the web. (Distant)
Perhaps it's not a general task for individuals, so you may need to find information between car repairers. But there are many things to do before the balance of the shaft.
It's already in winter and my car is now RWD.
