NEED HELP Parasitic Battery Drain

[MiniPilote]

2006 GMC Envoy Denali

I've read many posting here about this topic and watched numerous videos as well.
The battery seems to be dead after an overnight. It used to take a couple of night but now it's just one.
The folks here seem to be the most knowledgeable in this area.

Here is the short version
Battery and alternator have been replaced and are confirmed good.
Instrument cluster was repaired due to excessive lights burned out but also to see if it was contributing
to the drain. I don't know that they were truly able to determine if it was an issue.
Checked drain at all fuses after waiting for the sleep and recorded drains.
I have gone through many wiring diagrams and haven't been able to determine much.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Drain Chart
Amp Draw Desc Location Fuse #
0.40 HVAC2 Rear 36
0.30 OnStar/OH Rear 27
0.26 Radio Rear 41
0.03 Rear Wiper Rear 9
0.04 Driver Door Mod Rear 10
0.04 Pass Door Mod Rear 12
0.16 Lift Gate/Driver Seat Rear 19
0.04 TBC1 Front 58
0.04 ATC Front 8
0.30 IPC/DIC Front 24
1.61 Total

1.72 Total Amp at Battery

 

[Realism]

Are those all your draw voltage? Each fuse would bounce around a bit but eventually read 0.00.
Did you check all the fuses? Not only do you have what is under the hood, but you also have a second set under the rear driver side seat. Depending on model you should have somewhere are 42 regular mini fuses, and i think about 14 relays. Since you have the Denali there is a good chance that you have air bag suspension. Definitely pull the one for that and test it or just leave it out for a time over night. Air lift suspension proved to be a problem and many have had them replaced.

Do you have any kind of remote start or after market addon, sometimes they can fuse themselves into the on position with power, even when switched off.


What is your battery voltage while vehicle is running, and what is your voltage when vehicle is off. There is a chance as well that a line could be needing to be replaced and carry either a partial break or corrosion.

 

[mrrsm]

There are several locations worth checking for Broken-Shorted Wiring Harnesses, such as the Lift Gate Module Pass Thru Grommet between the Upper Rear Roof and the Lift Gate that might reveal something like this condition:



The Other was discussed in another Thread by @Mooseman and it concerned a Short Circuit in the Electric Seat Harness and Side Switch... (on the Passenger Front Seat if memory serves). Both Seat Switches and those areas adjacent as well as the LGM Harness Boot locations are fairly easy to investigate for these issues. THIS is the Thread that describes this event in detail.

SOLVED! - Parasitic Draw

So the Saab has cost me a few bucks with a new alternator and battery and it keeps dying in a week or so. So I've got a parasitic draw. Using the multimeter to measure amps, I'm getting a 1.27A draw. Quickly found that my ScanGauge II left plugged into the OBD port would draw over 1.1A and it...

gmtnation.com

EDIT:

One Last Suggestion...

You'd be surprised how quickly you can locate a Shorted Module due the phenomena of "PTC" (Positive Thermal Co-Efficent) in Copper Wires where the Electrons generate a substantial amount of HEAT immediate to those areas. If you have an inexpensive Infra-Red Camera....Locating these issues (even BEHIND) concealed Modules behind Plastic Fascia Panels will literally... "Glow In The Dark" as per some examples that prove Electricity is not only flowing...but encountering some kind of Resistance that generates the HEAT Signatures:



I would Start with BOTH Fuse Boxes and Eyeball the Ones that *GLOW*...

 

[MiniPilote]

Are those all your draw voltage? Each fuse would bounce around a bit but eventually read 0.00.
Did you check all the fuses? Not only do you have what is under the hood, but you also have a second set under the rear driver side seat. Depending on model you should have somewhere are 42 regular mini fuses, and i think about 14 relays. Since you have the Denali there is a good chance that you have air bag suspension. Definitely pull the one for that and test it or just leave it out for a time over night. Air lift suspension proved to be a problem and many have had them replaced.

Do you have any kind of remote start or after market addon, sometimes they can fuse themselves into the on position with power, even when switched off.


What is your battery voltage while vehicle is running, and what is your voltage when vehicle is off. There is a chance as well that a line could be needing to be replaced and carry either a partial break or corrosion.

So yes, I have checked all the fuses both under the hood and under the rear seat. I have pulled most of them and let it sit overnight as well. The air suspension one is probably one I need to investigate further though.
It does have an aftermarket stereo but I unplugged it completely and the battery still died.
I will double-check the voltage but last time I checked it was good when running and off. A line break might be a good call. I need to find the places that those typically happen (as mentioned below).

Thanks for the insight, I'll check some of these things are get back.

 

[MiniPilote]

There are several locations worth checking for Broken-Shorted Wiring Harnesses, such as the Lift Gate Module Pass Thru Grommet between the Upper Rear Roof and the Lift Gate that might reveal something like this condition:

View attachment 111457

The Other was discussed in another Thread by @Mooseman and it concerned a Short Circuit in the Electric Seat Harness and Side Switch... (on the Passenger Front Seat if memory serves). Both Seat Switches and those areas adjacent as well as the LGM Harness Boot locations are fairly easy to investigate for these issues. THIS is the Thread that describes this event in detail.

SOLVED! - Parasitic Draw

So the Saab has cost me a few bucks with a new alternator and battery and it keeps dying in a week or so. So I've got a parasitic draw. Using the multimeter to measure amps, I'm getting a 1.27A draw. Quickly found that my ScanGauge II left plugged into the OBD port would draw over 1.1A and it...

gmtnation.com

EDIT:

One Last Suggestion...


You'd be surprised how quickly you can locate a Shorted Module due the phenomena of "PTC" (Positive Thermal Co-Efficent) in Copper Wires where the Electrons generate a substantial amount of HEAT immediate to those areas. If you have an inexpensive Infra-Red Camera....Locating these issues (even BEHIND) concealed Modules behind Plastic Fascia Panels will literally... "Glow In The Dark" as per some examples that prove Electricity is not only flowing...but encountering some kind of Resistance that generates the HEAT Signatures:

View attachment 111457View attachment 111458View attachment 111459View attachment 111460View attachment 111461View attachment 111462View attachment 111463

Great stuff. Thanks so much for this. This gives me additional things to check. I appreciate the assistance. I will read that post and check these things. I read one post about the rear HAVC control but that was a dead end.
Again, thanks for the pointers. I'll check these things and get back.

 

[mrrsm]

Bump #3 for Added Information & Imagery...

 

[Mooseman]

The Other was discussed in another Thread by @Mooseman and it concerned a Short Circuit in the Electric Seat Harness and Side Switch..

Actually, it was a stuck switch, always activating the motor.

 

[Mooseman]

You're gonna have to do a full check for that parasitic draw. There are lots of videos on YouTube that shows how and different methods.

 

[Realism]

You're gonna have to do a full check for that parasitic draw. There are lots of videos on YouTube that shows how and different methods.

Them electrical gremlins. It is the only thing bad I can say about the platform and GM vehicles in general. Well that and the suspension lol
I was thinking today, since OP mentioned his cluster was replaced recently. I wonder if there is a ground issue with it. Try pulling that one specific fuse if you can and see if there is a change.

 

[Sqrly]

Did you watch the videos in this thread? https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/radio-drains-the-battery-in-about-2-days.23826/#post-641421

That's where I learned about pulling the shunt so one thing isn't keeping something else from sleeping. Then you start checking current draw across the fuses.

Also, if you have the fob that makes the doors unlock just by getting close, you need to pull the battery or make sure it's far far away. Just having it close can keep the system awake.

Everything you listed is way too high. Especially these.

0.40 HVAC2 Rear 36
0.30 OnStar/OH Rear 27
0.26 Radio Rear 41
0.16 Lift Gate/Driver Seat Rear 19
0.30 IPC/DIC Front 24

I just got my 04 corrected and I when I put my meter between the ground and battery neg post, it jumps up to a few amps when the system wakes then drops down to .005 amps in just a few minutes. You can see it drop in increments as modules go to sleep one by one.

My main cuplrit was the IPC/DIC. It is reccomended that you have it fully rebuilt if there's an issue with it. I just sent mine to these guys. https://www.gmgaugerepair.com/ It's $150 plus your cost to ship it to them. (They can also add custom stuff if you want)