- Jul 22, 2015
- 2,724
(note: I put a separate post in the full-size 'technical discussion' re: Fel-Pro gaskets and orientation, as I noticed the one I used for this was constructed differently than the OEM (which was flat on both sides).
Background: GM includes an engine oil cooler on its 3/4-ton and up platforms (it can be added to other V8-equipped vehicles). Unfortunately, it's the biggest cause of oil leaks. If you see oil dripping from the area of your oil filter - look just above it, and you'll likely find the source where the cooler mounts to the engine block.
Thankfully, it's not incredibly difficult to change the gasket (best to do it during an oil change, as you need to remove the oil from the engine, and remove the oil filter - or else, you're going to have a real mess.) You'll gain room to work with the filter off, as well.
As it is, even after the oil / filter is removed - a few ounces / ml's of oil *will* pour from the cooler / block once the seal is broken on the old gasket, so be prepared.
If you have 4WD, the front driveshaft will be directly in front of and just below the cooler bolts. There's enough room to work around it - a regular 10mm with short extension will be fine. A deep socket with no extension might even work better.
I had no regrets leaving the driveshaft in place.
Although you may not be able to turn the bolts far at first, they're not super tight (see below). After the cooler mount releases and the oil drains from it, you can likely turn the bolts the rest of the way out without the ratchet.
When installing the new gasket, it helps to insert the bolts so that they protrude past the cooler housing by 1/4 in. or so - that lets you 'hang' the gasket from them so that the gasket will be aligned properly. Then push the bolts through and hand-thread them to the block.
(2) Bolts are 10mm. Each are same length / otherwise identical.
Torque is 106 INCH/lb (or 8.83 ft/lb, if you don't have a 1/4" torque wrench. Yes, call it 9...LOL.) Do NOT overtighten; this gasket is said to be certain to leak, if it is tightened past spec.
GM gives a spec of 18 ft/lb - this is just for the one bolt that connects the hoses at the bracket on the bottom of the block. DON'T confuse this for the two attachment bolts with the gasket, or you will DEFINITELY snap them off, if you mistakenly try and tighten them to 18 ft/lb. You have been warned!
GM recommends *no* sealant be used on the gasket (if I have to do this again, I will likely ignore GM's advice).
Background: GM includes an engine oil cooler on its 3/4-ton and up platforms (it can be added to other V8-equipped vehicles). Unfortunately, it's the biggest cause of oil leaks. If you see oil dripping from the area of your oil filter - look just above it, and you'll likely find the source where the cooler mounts to the engine block.
Thankfully, it's not incredibly difficult to change the gasket (best to do it during an oil change, as you need to remove the oil from the engine, and remove the oil filter - or else, you're going to have a real mess.) You'll gain room to work with the filter off, as well.
As it is, even after the oil / filter is removed - a few ounces / ml's of oil *will* pour from the cooler / block once the seal is broken on the old gasket, so be prepared.
If you have 4WD, the front driveshaft will be directly in front of and just below the cooler bolts. There's enough room to work around it - a regular 10mm with short extension will be fine. A deep socket with no extension might even work better.
I had no regrets leaving the driveshaft in place.
Although you may not be able to turn the bolts far at first, they're not super tight (see below). After the cooler mount releases and the oil drains from it, you can likely turn the bolts the rest of the way out without the ratchet.
When installing the new gasket, it helps to insert the bolts so that they protrude past the cooler housing by 1/4 in. or so - that lets you 'hang' the gasket from them so that the gasket will be aligned properly. Then push the bolts through and hand-thread them to the block.
(2) Bolts are 10mm. Each are same length / otherwise identical.
Torque is 106 INCH/lb (or 8.83 ft/lb, if you don't have a 1/4" torque wrench. Yes, call it 9...LOL.) Do NOT overtighten; this gasket is said to be certain to leak, if it is tightened past spec.
GM gives a spec of 18 ft/lb - this is just for the one bolt that connects the hoses at the bracket on the bottom of the block. DON'T confuse this for the two attachment bolts with the gasket, or you will DEFINITELY snap them off, if you mistakenly try and tighten them to 18 ft/lb. You have been warned!
GM recommends *no* sealant be used on the gasket (if I have to do this again, I will likely ignore GM's advice).
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