Matching block to diagram grounds

[Elizabetty]

I recently replaced my negative battery cable. It was connected where my blue arrow is in the pic, and all my reading said that would be g110. However, when looking at the attached image, it appears there's nothing there and g110 is to the lower left where I already appear to have something bolted but I'll get in there closer to look again.

When going through images of grounds and the ground distribution pages, I don't see multiple connections should be on 110 and I can't find what should be where the blue arrow is.

Should I move my cable? Should there be a bolt or empty hole where the blue arrow is? If there is something already bolted under the bolt to the lower left, would I still put my negative cable there?

 

[mrrsm]

This Video Screen Grab comes from a unique and uncommon access of the GM 4.2L Engine "In Situ" after the Body was lifted by Duane and his Crew over at "RealFixesRealFast". If you note in this image...there are Three Grounds or Bonding Straps attached by Eyelets onto the Lower to Mid-Section of the Driver's Side of the Engine Block. The One that is Circled in Yellow and Red is the one for the Battery Ground Cable Attachment Point:



Observe the Poor Condition of the Battery Ground here... very much due to the excessive Green "Cupric Oxide" or Copper Oxide accretion that will definitely INCREASE Electrical Resistance in the Ground Cable Copper Wiring and thus... wind up dissipating much of the Battery Voltage as ***Heat*** due to the phenomena called PTC (Positive Thermal Co-Efficient).

That Fancy Expression translates into meaning that your Electrical System WILL suffer from a Poor Ground if Copper Oxide prevails at each Ground Connection and along the length of the Inner Copper Wires The Lowered DC Voltage always results from the presence of said obvious Green Corrosion... by literally 'infecting' that Ground Cable and its Steel Eyelet Connector Tangs; and for a considerable length well up inside of the Black Plastic Insulation covering the Ground Cable(s).

Now some Folks may argue against the idea of using any "Dielectric Grease" at these Ground Contact Locations. But Trust Me... The DISTINCTION of using a Dielectric Substance in these places might seem to be counter-intuitive... but most Corrosion of THIS Kind is due to Galvanic or Electrolytic Corrosion caused when there is an Electron Flow between Two Different or Dissimilar Types of Metal... in this case... Cadmium Coated Steel Eyelets clamped to the Copper Cables... and then Bolted up to the "Lost Foam" Cast Aluminum Engine Block. By using a Small Amount of "Dielectric Grease" on the Tang and Bolt or Fastener... it prevents the creation of the Galvanic Corrosion AND YET... still allows for having GOOD ELECTRICAL GROUNDS. :>)

Duane's Video will prove very helpful if you watch it Slow Motion to view areas of the GMT360 Vehicles with uncommon clarity and with an opportunity to SEE things ordinarily hidden from Plain View... such as locating and removing the Emergency Brake Cables under the Body of Your SUV:

 

[TJBaker57]

Copied this image from another member here and annotated it. Not seen is G107 which should be above G110.

 

[mrrsm]

And THAT Identical Heavy Gauge Copper Wire Ground Cable has a LOT of Green Corrosion, too..

 

[Elizabetty]

I'm going to have to post a pic of what I have going on down there tomorrow cuz I have a brand new cable connected, not to these spots, without an available empty bolt, specifically g110 where I'd prefer it be to try and stay aligned with factory setup as much as possible. I have to check what's already grounded there. Perhaps not important in every scenario but since I'm learning as I go, it helps me to keep things matching original design as much as possible..

 

[Elizabetty]

I've attached two photos. There is an arrow showing where my negative cable was replaced, new onto a bolt where the old cable was. I assumed it was g110 since that was where it belongs. However, there is a second arrow showing where I believe g110 actually is. Should I move this down and to the left to g110 or is this spot fine? I don't really want to compare it to functionality of the vehicle as far as diagnosing are there problems etc. I just want it done correctly right now.

 

[Mooseman]

Exactly where it is bolted on the block isn't as important as the cleanliness of the contacts. I'm pretty sure I put them in the wrong spots when I did my engine swap. As long as they are good, clean and tight, it's fine.