Audio... Big mistake or not?

Gump2773

Original poster
Member
Feb 21, 2012
147

MMIN

Member
Feb 26, 2012
55
You can wire that all up together just fine. The only issue is that the amp is a little weak when it comes to power - but if your not looking to go crazy a couple hundred watts is more than enough for most people without breaking the bank. In your situation you have (2) dual 4 ohm subs. Your amp makes the most power either bridged 200 x 1 @ 4 ohms or 75 x 2 @ 2 ohms.

You can go either way. If you want to bridge the amp, you wire each subs voice coils in series and then put the 2 subs in parallel for a 4ohm mono load to the amp - which is exactly what it's looking for.

If you want to run the amp as 2-channel, you parallel the voice coils of the subs so each sub is a 2 ohm load and just run one sub per channel off the amp which again is exactly what it's looking for.

If you decided to just use 1 sub, you would not be able to take full advantage of that amplifier. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing either. Not pushing the amp would allow it to run cooler and produce cleaner sound, but the output would suffer and in your case I probably wouldn't recommend it.

Hope it helps let me know if you have any other questions,
 

Gump2773

Original poster
Member
Feb 21, 2012
147
Ok so, hooked everything up. Sound is decent, certain frequencies THUMP, but I havent had any time to mess with tuning through the sub output on the radio and the gain and such on the amp. Its been so long since i did any audio i dont even know where to start. I have a couple more questions about wiring while im at it.

The power to the amp is tapped into the large red post at the rear fusebox under back seat with an inline fuse. Am I ok there?
The remote (blue) is supposed to go to the wiring harness behind the head unit (blue w/white stripe) Can it go anywhere else? If not I can remove HU and do it right LOL.

As far as tuning is concerned is there steps I can follow to do it right? IE: what should my HU settings be to start with before i start tuning from the amp?

I know this is a jumbled mess of a post but thats where my head is at right now.

And for finishers, The box is 3 cu ft. ported, tuned to 32hz. The subs as far as I can gather from research recommend 1 cu ft per sub sealed. Am I really going to sacrifice lows with a sealed enclosure?
 

MMIN

Member
Feb 26, 2012
55
The power to the amp is tapped into the large red post at the rear fusebox under back seat with an inline fuse. Am I ok there?

Being a smaller amp you won't have any issues with that. I would use a 30a fuse inline at the rear fusebox. If you upgrade amps in the future I would recommend running directly to the battery.

The remote (blue) is supposed to go to the wiring harness behind the head unit (blue w/white stripe) Can it go anywhere else? If not I can remove HU and do it right LOL.

It can go to any accessory or ignition source that comes on and off with the key. Preferably accessory if you want to be able to play it in the ACC position. Or constant and throw a toggle switch somewhere if you want. The downside to not running to the back of the radio "the right way" is if you turn the radio off the amp stays on. I assume you ran rcas to the back of the head unit anyway so it wouldn't be too hard to throw the remote wire back there too.

As far as tuning is concerned is there steps I can follow to do it right? IE: what should my HU settings be to start with before i start tuning from the amp?

I would just google it there are a ton of resources for this. To start put the head unit to the highest level you normally listen to, then turn the gain up on the amp until it starts to distort. Back it down a bit.. Crossover I usually do somewhere between 60 and 100hz on the lowpass. That's basic tuning in about 2 minutes.. Read up some more and you'll be able to dial it in a bit more. Head unit settings you would want it fairly flat.. No LOUD, no bass boost, etc (none of which should ever be used anyway).

And for finishers, The box is 3 cu ft. ported, tuned to 32hz. The subs as far as I can gather from research recommend 1 cu ft per sub sealed. Am I really going to sacrifice lows with a sealed enclosure?

Your box is tuned to the low end so you won't be sacrificing all that much, but it may seem a bit boomy at certain frequencies...
 

Gump2773

Original poster
Member
Feb 21, 2012
147
Sweet thanks for the help. The box im running is waaaaay to big, takes up the whole ass end of the truck. I think im gonna go ahead and build up a 2 cu. ft sealed enclosure and hope for the best with sound. Thinking something that lays flat and is form fitting to the shape of the rear cargo area and then throwing a false floor down on top of it so I can still utilize space if needed.
 

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