IllogicTC said:Can someone confirm/deny, I was under the impression the Bose amp couldn't be used with a non-Bose unit? Different connectors or pin-outs or something? I also thought that there would be more than just dropping in a nav unit, isn't having the OnStar module a requirement?
As for the actual diagrams, we have everything you need in the Technical Discussion page. There's a link up top that says "Need service manuals? Get them here!" by Mooseman, he generously hosts these so we may have them available. They are all Adobe Acrobat (.pdf) files, there's several packages to choose from, grab the package(s) you need and want and have a ball! I have them all just in case
IllogicTC said:Can someone confirm/deny, I was under the impressibypasshe Bose amp couldn't be used with a non-Bose unit? Different connectors or pin-outs or something? I also tdt that there would be more than just dropping in a nav unit, isdiagramng the OnStar module a requirement?
As for the actual diagrams, we have everything you need in the Technical Discussion page. There's a link up top that says "Need service manuals? Get them here!" by Mooseman, he generously hosts these so we may have them available. They are all Adobe Acrobat (.pdf) files, there's several packages to choose from, grab the package(s) you need and want and have a ball! I have them all just in case
....thankz. .dude...I think that is a lot of work ...so I have to give up.....shit lost almost like 500...I just gonna keen everything stock.....and try to sell the navigation stereo. ...thankz bro....IllogicTC said:Oh, you can make it work. It just gets difficult to get around the strange impedance Bose tends to use. Running a driver with lower impedance than an amplifier is designed to handle can result in overloading the amplifier circuits in some cases. There's places out there that claim to sell HUs and amps that are compatible with Bose systems, I've never seen one myself just heard about it, so I can't verify.
Using an aftermarket amp to run the Bose drivers may work out, I have no experience on this particular subject, and it would probably sound at least a heap better than trying to run straight from the HU. As you know, the wiring's already been run back there for the speakers so that simplifies some things. I'm sure if you stick around someone else will pop up who can give more answers, and has maybe done this same thing which would be a great help. I thought someone was looking to bypass their Lux a while back in some other thread here, have a look around and see if you can find anything on it.
Not sure on the harness, I'm just a general wire-chaser and logic guy.
And remember - if you get this project completed and decide to ditch the Lux, I'm sure someone around here may be interested in making it worth your while.
All drivers are run from the amp. Here's how it works:
In a non-Bose radio w/o rear-seat audio, the head unit outputs four channels, LF, RF, LR and RR, as I'm sure we're all very aware. Now, these four signals travel to their respective locations and do their work.
In a non-Bose w/ RSA, the front outputs are directed to the front speakers, and the rear outputs route through the BCM. If RSA is off, the BCM then relays the audio on to the rear speakers. If it's active, the BCM instead routes whatever the RSA has selected to the jacks instead of along to the speakers.
In a Bose radio, it works differently. Rear-seat audio is a requisite for the Bose option. In this setup, only the LF and RF outputs feed to the amp, to give stereo left and right input. LR and RR are routed to the rear-seat audio on the auxiliary HVAC unit. When the RSA is used, the amp receives a signal to cut power to the rear door speakers, and the head unit outputs whatever is supposed to go to the RSA through the rear outputs.
So, you've already got the Bose setup. Here's the problem:
-If you're going to use a factory radio, it's not suggested to use it to drive Bose speakers directly. For one, Bose speakers use a strange impedance, I believe either 1 or 2 ohms. Some old systems on other vehicles have even had 0.5 ohm Bose speakers, like the Miata.
-It's a mixed bag on whether or not the sound is better. For a factory HU, probably not. Really, if you have a Lux, USE IT!!! From what I understand it sounds amazing, I wouldn't know but I have a non-Lux that sounds very nice (or maybe I somehow got a leftover Lux from the factory). Going back to factory HU straight to the speakers would be a shame, I don't think it could really drive them even without considering impedance.
But, if you're insistent, I'll supply the diagrams. And if you decide to stick with this setup and keep Lux out of the loop, why not offer it for sale in the sale section of the forums? I'm sure there's a few people around here who'd like to get their hands on one and it'd put some money back in your pocket.
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