Ryobi Riding Mower Mods Chat Thread

[mrrsm]

"Ohhh Brother...Where Art Thou?"

I probably need some assistance and advice here from @Blckshdw right now to ...Talk Me Off The Ledge... about the need to completely replace the Four Lead Acid 100 Amp-Hour Batteries loading up the Under Tray of my Ryobi RM480E Electric Riding Lawn Mower...that DIED SUDDENLY... just after making a Dual Blade Swap...with... New Lithium Ion Phosphate Batteries that weigh only 1/3rd of the OEM Lead-Acid Batteries and can last as long as 10 Years if installed and maintained correctly. THIS deal from Amazon seems to provide the MOST Bang 4 The Buck and includes all three new components that will allow this transition to occur... all for around $1,210.00:



Oh... the other things I discovered about this Ryobi Model# RM480E Mower is that the Electric Motors driving the Two 20" Blades have ENORMOUS Power... Power enough to Tear the Tip Off of the End of One of the Blades ...after I struck a Cast Iron City Water Access Cover hidden along my sloped front easement area. THIS was a Big Surprise and it explained why the Mower was "Shaking Like a Chihuahua Pooping a Peach Pit". And since the Ryobi Manual fails to mention THIS... the Proper Tire Pressure should be right at: 20 PSI:

Best Ever Ryobi OEM Dual Blades R&R Step-By-Step Instructions:

 

[Blckshdw]

I probably need some assistance and advice here from @Blckshdw right now to ...Talk Me Off The Ledge... about the need to completely replace the Four Lead Acid 100 Amp-Hour Batteries loading up the Under Tray of my Ryobi RM480E Electric Riding Lawn Mower...that DIED SUDDENLY.

Well, it would be awfully hard for me to talk you off the ledge, that I've been sitting on for the past couple of summers myself I had all the same goodies on a wishlist, and the only thing that kept me from pulling the trigger, was spending a few dollars on a load tester and checking all of my SLA batteries individually. Turns out that 1 of my batteries had died, the other 3 were still good, so I replaced that one, instead of all 4. Bought me some time.

In the LiFePo research rabbit hole I fell down, I also stumbled across the Big Battery Falcon Elite model, which is designed for golf carts. It's only 60Ah, compared to the 100ah of the many 4 individual battery options for roughly the same price, but it has notches in the casing, that appear to fit the Ryobi mower tray, and it's a single unit instead of 4. For my property, the current 75ah is more than enough, so the downgrade in capacity wouldn't be an issue.

That's crazy how your blade snapped off like that. I hit a piece of a metal pipe some years ago when I was mowing the easement next to the street because the county was slacking on getting it done and the grass was really tall. No breakage for me, but the pipe did get jammed in the blade, and I had to remove the cutting deck so I could flip it over and dislodge it. That was a pain.

 

[mrrsm]

Well... You had me marked correctly... as I just made the 'Leap Of Electrical Faith' by Pulling The Pin necessary to remedy the lamentable and sad shape my front yard has become since I injured my left hand (The Viking's Disease) so many months ago. So... I cannot wait for this solution to get here ...ASAP.

My main concern was having to twice wrangle with the nearly 70 Lbs per battery (Times 8) that comes with having to replace those Four Dead 100 Amp Hour Boat Anchors resting on that slide rack underneath there right now. The New Li-Po Batteries weigh about 1/3 as much: about that of Two Big Boxes of Kitty Litter and so, working the Four of them into the Ryobi Tray will be fairly easy. Also, losing that amount of excess Lead Weight also means that the Electric Rear Wheels Drive Motor ...AND... The Two New Blade Motors will have a MUCH easier time of it as well.

These New Li-Po Batteries hold the promise of solving my present problems ...for at least a Decade to come... and for me, that would reflect my optimism of challenging what is left of my own life... By God's Fair Grace ...for my own durability when matched against the promise those Li-Po Batteries hold for being trouble free for at least that length of time.

Using this idea as a worthwhile Bench-Mark for me trying to last up to 85 Years of age while still cutting the Grass around my home with the Ryobi Riding Mower... .that might well be growing over me by then.. is both Funny and Ironic in a way and as Good A True Motivation as any for me to keep on fighting ahead, and "NOT To Go Gently... Into That Good Night..." :>)

The Moral of The Story:

If Ordinary Lead-Acid 100 Amp Hour (and Extraordinary AGM) Lead-Acid Batteries will Only Last Three Years when powering the Ryobi and cost just as much as THESE do... I say Bring on the Ten Year Lithium Iron-Phosphate Batteries... And Damn The Torpedoes ... Full Speed Ahead...

Seven Months AFTER The Battery Conversion...

And two other "Elder Battery Swap Masters" with more "How Tos" on this Conversion:

Proof Of Purchase:





PS... All the Due Diligence is listed as Links to Products and Training Videos necessary to "Make The Switch" are present in the PDF below:

 

[mrrsm]

After a timely and educational PM with @Blckshdw ... I should mention first how important our relationships are HERE at GMT Nation, for when it comes to relying upon giving and receiving advice and counsel, his information is so prescient and important right now...and I am so VERY Grateful to him for it!

prescient at DuckDuckGo

DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.

duckduckgo.com

With the burden of trying to get the Ryobi RM480E Bullet-Proofed against failures... I followed his advice after recognizing having had the SAME symptoms of Interrupted Acceleration I also experienced. This discussion lead me back to @Blckshdw ’s Post #2,270 from the “What Came in the Mail Today?” Thread:

https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/what-came-in-your-mail-today.12962/page-57





...and it follows on that I might have my chance to get once of these...Stateside ...Hopefully ASAP:

Ryobi Drive Controller Part# H0M996508001

Available HERE...

https://www.partselect.com/PS16477177-Ryobi-996508001-Drive-Motor-Controller-V.htm




...and Available HERE…

https://www.partswarehouse.com/Homelite-Ridgid-Ryobi-Drive-Motor-Controller-HM-9-p/hm-996508001.htm



It only remains to confirm with @Blckshdw that these two items match the one he purchased direct from Ryobi of Japan (@ a Comparable Price?) ...and whether or not the Strange Acceleration Issue occurred BEFORE or AFTER he replaced One of his Four AGM 75 Amp Hour Batteries... before I *Pull The Pin* and make this order from the place that can perform the Sale with the FASTEST S&H Possible:

Thanks In Advance!

PS Was it necessary to remove the Battery Tray first in order to access and R&R the Drive Controller from the driver's rear inside Chassis area?

 

[Blckshdw]

@mrrsm I had 2 issues. The battery problem was one of my own creation, when I bought a 15 gallon ATV mounted tank sprayer to use with the mower. The pump for it was 12V, so I clamped the leads onto a single battery in the tray. Since that one battery would charge at the same rate as the other 3, it never regained it's full capacity, and eventually went dead. As a result my overall runtime slowly tanked, to the point I could only cut half of my 1/3 acre property on a "full" charge, whereas before, I could cut the entire property 3 times on a single charge.

The intermittent stop/start issue had started before that, but increased in frequency over the last couple of summers. I put the front up on ramps, then jacked up the rear to sit on jack stands so I could troubleshoot. Took me a while to get a pin out of the harnesses, but once I did, I could sit stationary in the garage, with a fan keeping me cool, and run various tests on the motor controller input connections (accelerator pedal, brake pedal, F/R selector, power and ground) with my meter to see if there was some component that was failing, causing the motor controller to stop. Long story short, every input tested remained as expected when the problem occurred, leading me to confirm it was the controller itself at fault.




After you remove the rear cover on the battery tray, you can remove the left side cover where the motor controller is. There's 4 nuts on the outside of the frame, the bolts come through from the inside. All of the connectors are shrink wrapped with some really tough stuff. Be careful when cutting through them. The white connector for the hall effect sensor is the most difficult to open up. Do that one last, as it requires the most patience.

I ordered my replacement through the Ryobi site I gave you, and their domestic partner Gardner Inc filled the order, $377 with shipping, out of Columbus, OH, took 3 days via UPS ground.

 

[mrrsm]

Really Good Diagnostic Stuff Here... A Thousand Thanks (Tusen Takke) ... I decided on the Parts Warehouse On-Line location because they had the item in stock (and for $10.00 Less) and had an option to Speed Up Shipping Time. The Four LI-FE-PO 100AH Batteries on order via Amazon should arrive around April 19th, 2024, so the Controller should also be here by then as well. I will be VERY careful working through that Industrial Grade Wire Shrink Wrap once I get close enough to perform this R&R once I pull off the side panels AND tug out that heavy Battery Tray to free up more space under there.

@Blckshdw ... I Really Do Appreciate all of these insights!!!

 

[mrrsm]

THIS will probably turn out to be the SCARIEST and MOST Technical Part of converting the Ryobi Model# RM480E Riding Electric lawn Mower from the OEM Lead-Acid Batteries over to the LiFePO4 Batteries: "How To Install and Calibrate the NEW AILI Battery Power Gauge" ... Made SO Much EZR now after Viewing, Downloading, Saving and Reviewing THIS Excellent Video (AND I TOOK STAGED SCREEN SHOTS FOR CLARITY OF THESE STEP-BY-STEPS):

Part 1 of Two Parts showing the Hardware Set Up and Calibration Steps Photos:

 

[mrrsm]

Part 2 of Two Parts covering the Calibration of the newly installed Right Console Battery Power Monitor Display Gauge illustrating the *Push Button* Fascia Set Up Procedures for monitoring the LI-FE-PO 100AH Batteries in the Ryobi Model# RM480E 36" Riding Electric Mower:

 

[mrrsm]

For @Blckshdw , myself and perhaps others ...who've Drunk The Ryobi Electric Riding Lawn Mower Kool-Aid ...and contemporary with my Snapping Off the leading edge of One Blade as illustrated above... THIS Dude Shows Us How To Replace the Bearings in the VERY Expensive Ryobi 48 Volt DC Brush-less Deck (Blade) Motors on the Ryobi Model# RM48E Machines.

Once the LiFEPO4 Battery Project is completed and I can actually Fire Up the Machine... I'll be able to better assess whether or not I have damaged the inner races of them. This is the kind of indispensable information that will add a decade of Life to this amazing Grass Cutting System. Besides that, THIS is the kind of Tool Work that we all vibe to elsewhere for similar Motor and Alternator Repairs:

UPDATE on Sunday, April 28, 2024...

I received the Four Timken Bearings needed to replace any that might be damaged after I ran over that Cast Iron City Water Cover and Snapped Off the Tip of the Blade on the Right Side Motor.

However, after watching the Diagnostic Method used in this Video above of "Spinning the Blades during a Before and After Bearing Replacement" AND after Pushing and Pulling up and down on the Brand New Replacement Blade Tips to feel for any Outer Orbit Bearing Wobble....they were Quiet and Made No *Grumbling Noise".

So that means Two Less Repair and Refurbish Jobs needed to get my Ryobi ERLM back "Up & Cutting" again....and I can just put the Four Timken Bearings into the Rybot Parts & Repair Box for later back on the shelf... Better to Have Them and NOT Need Them than to NEED Them and NOT have Them. :>)

 

[mrrsm]

Over the brief period of a full day that it took to place each of the Four LiFePO4 100AH Batteries atop my Kitchen Stove (one at a time) I then used the New Dedicated 12 Volt - 20 Amp Charger to bring all four Batteries (one at a time) up to the Max of 14.4 Volts with 100 AH's of Storage topped off inside each battery... and gradually... THESE Installation Support Hardware and Specialty Tools arrived via prior orders from Amazon and eBay.

All that remains now if for the Two Deck Motors' Dual Sets of Upper and Lower Timken Sealed Roller Bearings and the New Ryobi OEM Deck Motor Controller to arrive. It is Best Practices to have everything on hand before beginning work on the Lawn Mower, lest the need to disassemble things put together in haste makes for any unnecessary waste of time and effort to have to do so:

 

[Blckshdw]

Did you get TWO battery gauges?

 

[mrrsm]

Yes... The reason being is that while the Smaller Shunt - Gauge Combo is meant for the Ryobi Lawn Mower, the Larger Shunt might come in handy for things like Off Grid Power and an RV Battery Powered Electrical System. So... I wanted to have BOTH on hand just in case I decided later on to experiment with the LiFePO4 Systems in another application.

This would of course involve getting a few more of these Batteries (and maybe some supporting Solar Panels too for Re-Charging them) for the potential coming Radical Hurricane Season that you and I and others might soon face down here in Sunny Florida in 2024.

While the Four Awesome LiFePO4 Batteries meant for the Ryobi ERLM were charging and topping off at rate of around 100AH Full Charge at 14.4 Volts DC (4-5 Hours) for each on a Single 12 VDC 20 LiFePO4 Charger... I watched a few Dudes on YouTube using ONLY ONE 12 Volt DC 100AH Battery while successfully powering Small Refrigerators using various Wattage Pure Sine Wave 12 VDC to 120 VAC Inverters:

This Young Lad ran his Small 12 VDC RV Fridge for 5 Days in a Row @ 34 Degrees F on a Single LiFePO4 12 VDC 100AH Battery... Pretty "KOOL" Huh?:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=INVERTER+RUNS+SMALL+RERIGERATOR

Those Amazing Videos prompted me to order THIS Renogy 2000W Inverter (with THREE 110-120 Pure Sine Wave AC Outlets) ...on the SPOT.... with 32% OFF via Amazon THIS IS SWEET!:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9SXV61/?tag=gmtnation-20

I'm giving serious thought to getting THIS Solar Rig because of its Simplicity and Ease of Installation... one that I can set up on the Roof of my 10'X14' Arrow Metal Shed and have the option to use Power Tools, Lights & and even a TV out there (If the Lil' Woman puts me on a Time Out in the Back Yard) as well as keeping the Ryobi's New Batteries passively Charged during "The Days of Sunshine" and not draw House Electric Power... Just Sayin'...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BPSLF258/?tag=gmtnation-20

Important Safety Tip for ANYONE using a 12 VDC to 120VAC Pure Sine Wave Inverter:

If you are using the Inverter to power ANY device that requires that...Say your Small RV Microwave or Basement- Garage Food Freezer requires a PROPER CHASSIS Ground...Pay attention to the Tool and Appliance Warnings on anything you plug into the Inverters as you may Risk Death or Injury from Electric Shock *IF* you Do Not Take the Proper Grounding Actions in advance of turning them on.

 

[mrrsm]

Okay… THIS one is meant just for @Blckshdw as it concerns what might come in the Mail from the Folks at HTRC for this particular 9 Stage Model # P3648 Charger for his Ryobi Model# RM480E Riding Electric Mower that might just come with a ROUND Golf Cart Connector and of course… THAT will NOT be Kosher or Convenient.

It might seem that with only Three Robust Wires to transfer in between the Two Plug-In Connectors that performing THIS Connector Swap is supposed to be *A Trivial Breeze*… But Trust me… IT AIN’T. The wiring Color Motifs and Gauges are different between Manufacturers (which really Puzzles me...) and you’ll be Playing Three Dimensional Old Harry Chess (Or Should Be...) before cutting any wires from either Plug and wind up in trouble without thinking of their arrangements carefully.

The REAL Problem though is that IF you don’t ensure that a MOD is made that will “Light Up The Green Light" on the Female Tri-Post Receptacle… it is very possible to Drive Down the Ramp from inside your Shed WITH the LiFePo4 Charger STILL Attached to the Mower!

The MODDING suggested in the Video that follows on below is VERY edifying. However, the Ryobi OEM Tri-Connector you will be Pirating from that Heavy Ribbed Aluminum Box is a Different Kind of Animal that the Wire-Fly Crimping Tool and Wire-Fly Sealing Butt Connectors made Very Quick Work of once I ensured how everything was supposed to Come Apart and then get Re-Assembled about 20 Times...just to make Damned Certain of “WUUUT Gets CUUUT?” because of all the people we know with the Chops to perform exotic Electrical and Electronic Work… You know only TOO Well that..”Wires NEVER Grow Back…”

I took the most critical images of how this all worked out..but only AFTER I Staged Assembly of the Connected Pins so that BEFORE I “Put The Music” to those Butt Connectors inside the Wire-Fly Clamp Pliers that the FLATS on the bottoms of ALL THREE PINS Pins were Flat and Even on the Counter Top and oriented without stress so that the Wire Strands would not be experiencing the slightest Radial Torque and have them work harden or pull loose over time.

 

[mrrsm]

Following up on suggestions made by @Blckshdw in Post #864, I managed to get through the First Half of this LiFePO4 Battery R&R this morning and took particular care to memorialize ALL of the Battery Cage Harness and Sub-Harness connections as "Before and After" removal steps ONLY and then managed to remove the Four Heavy AGM Batteries onto my Gorilla Kart (Very Handy because NOW it has Solid, Flat-Free Tires). I'll continue with the R&R of the Ryobi Deck Motor Controller tomorrow morning.

Your BFF when working away on this Equipment is to have and use several cans of "Canned Air" to be able to constantly clear away dried grass clippings and plain old DIRT from every Nook & Cranny... as it makes everything so much easier to work with. The other items in support of the work are Two Cinder Blocks and a section of Wide, Thin Board to slide the Battery Cage out on the Rack ...and NOT lose control of the 280 Lbs LOAD just setting on that Tray:

 

[mrrsm]

Another Day... Another Installment of this fascinating repair of the Ryobi Model# RM480E ERLM undergoing substantial re-fitting of its Old AGM Batteries and its Primary Deck Motor and Drive Motor Controller:

Part 2

For anyone in need of performing these Detail Heavy Tasks...Heed the admonitions and warnings provided by @Blckshdw that I'll amplify here by itemizing a few steps:

(1) It will take at least Three Cans of Canned Air and a Handful of Soaking Wet Paper Shop Towels to clean off all of the surfaces of everything being Touched, Removed or Replaced.

(2) Use the SHARPEST Razor you can find...VERY CAREFULLY. If Brain Surgeons could get away with it, they would operate on people using Butter Knives. But... they KNOW Better Because you can CUT yourself badly or DAMAGE the things you are working around using EXCESSIVE FORCE AND PRESSURE DUE TO USING A DULL BLADE. The images below show WHY I chose using the latter in this case and applied its Slicing Power Very Judiciously.

(3) Throw in getting a Mixed Sizes Bag of Nylon Zip Ties for the re-assembly of the Electrical Connectors because in addition to the *:Listening for them to CLICK Together* events for EACH and EVERY One...they will need to be secured prior to being wrapped back up in their Original Plastic Shrink Wraps and finally ensconced with Black Electric Tap Wrappings... BUT FIRST, they must be firmly connected together and secured by means of using a Single Zip-Tie Looped around each opposing Connector Wires and then CINCHED TOGETHER in between lengthwise, using a Third Longer Zip-Tie to Solidly Bind the Two Halves and thus, prevent their Accidental Separation under Very Harsh Operating Conditions.

(4) The Better you PLAN IN ADVANCE to have everything you'll need before beginning ANY work at all...And then... Work Slowly and Carefully ...The Better you will enjoy doing something that can go SIDEWAYS very quickly if you are NOT Very Careful with Those *SHARPS*!

(5) The issue that @Blckshdw pointed out about having the *Strange - Starts & Stops* may have been the result of the Back Plate on the Deck Motor Controller RUSTING AROUND THE PERIMETER and allowing water and corrosion to set up on the interior PCB and Innards. I'll be performing an Autopsy on this device later on to delve deeper inside of it and see if this Expensive Thing can be repaired and perhaps put back on the shelf as a Spare.I'm going to clean the Back Plate of the Controller with Alcohol and apply a layer of GRAY HI-TEMP RTV around that Cover Seam as "Preventive Medicine" on the New One.



If the fine record we have around here of Very Rapid Delivery Fulfillment from Amazon by getting me those required Zip-Ties happens before 4:00 PM EST Today... I should be able to get back out in the yard and... And Literally... Wrap Everything Up... and then be ready for the New LiFEPO4 Batteries to be mounted-secured on the Tray, install the New Gauge & Shunt into the Right Console... and hopefully have it all working properly by Mid-Morning Tomorrow.

 

[Blckshdw]

@mrrsm if you're like me, and get annoyed at the loud shrieking alarm whenever you're in reverse or hop off the mower while the key is on to address something, you can do a muffler mod. Wad up a little bit of paper/shop towel and stick it in the hole, then cover with a small piece of duct tape.

In my case, cut the volume down to about 20%, which is still audible to me, but not to the entire neighborhood.

 

[mrrsm]

What a Great Idea for Stifling that Startling and LOUD Back Up Alarm... I've been considering covering that central opening with that HOT Staple Gun FLAT IRON Feature along with a small section of the included Black Plastic Filler Material in the Case. Your suggestion now takes priority here as the more practical and an E-Z-R Solution, Sir! A Thousand Thanks!



Hmmm... Now I finally know what I can use some of those Cotton Balls packed so generously inside of Medicine Bottles for... :>)

 

[mrrsm]

Okay... Things were moving along yesterday and were very good once I assembled the New Drive Motor Controller in the Lower Left Rear Side Chassis of the Ryobi Model# RM480E RELM. It followed on that I Zip-Tied and Double Tesa-Taped each of the Color-Coded Cables and then set about orienting the Four New LiFePO4 Batteries onto the Rack along with fastening each of the Battery Harness Color-Coded Segments onto the Battery Posts.

Essentially, the only things that remained then to do were to use the T-30 Socket on my Extra Long 120 *Click* 1/4" Drive Ratchet (What a SWEET Device THAT Tool Truly IS!) and remove the Console Cover. Then while tilting the Free Panel at a Right Angle, I carefully moved the Two Blue & Red Wire Terminals on the Key Switch from the Two Pins situated onthe Right Side Bottom ...One Pin Over... (Just One Ping, Vasily!) at a Time and then plugged them back into what is the ACC (Left Side) of that Chrome Steel Switch and then... I re-fastened the Console Panel afterwards with the T-30 Fasteners.

With that work done and with my usual Mechanic's Superstition of "NOT PUTTING THE FASCIA PIECES BACK ON THE MACHINE BEFORE YOU KNOW THAT IT WORKS...". I hopped up into the Driver's (Rider's?) Seat and Very Gingerly... Inserted the Ryobi Key into the Activation Switch. And... Just as I suspected... as I tested the Old "KEY-ON" Position by making a Half-Turn (Clockwise) to the Right... Nothing Happened. Then, I simply turned that Key 180 Degrees (Counter-Clockwise) to the Left... and OMG... IT WORKED!

It was right then that I realized that my Freshly Charged LiFePO4 Batteries were sending power through the Accessory Harness to the (NOW USELESS) Console Power Gauge . So it only remained for me to make a VERY Tenuous Test of the Drive System. So I Mashed the Forward-Neutral-Reverse Push Down, toggling it down to the FORWARD Position and VERY Lightly depressed the ACC Pedal with my Right Foot...and so... We were SLOWLY MOVING AHEAD.

Even with being THRILLED at this Victory Repair thus far...I was still afraid to move away too far from the present work location in my Back Yard, so I came to a HALT and then depressed the Toggle Switch to the Reverse Position and repeated the gingerly action of lightly depressing the ACC Pedal a second time. Once again, an indelible grin spread across my Ancient Kisser as we moved slowly BACKWARDS and I could hear what was then MUSIC TO MY EARS under the circumstances of that LOUD WARNING SIREN...Blaring briefly until I came to a HALT.

Wow... THIS meant that EVERYTHING I had seen up to that point of all the Instructive Videos for making this dramatic swap from AGM Batteries over to the Miraculous LiFePO4 Batteries ...WAS ABSOLUTELY TRUE. But...as tired as I was from Heat Fatigue and working outside on this project all that day... I SHOULD have just STOPPED RIGHT THEN. But the Old Adage, "Act In Haste...Suffer at Leisure" Bug crawled out of that Ryobi Machine ...and BIT ME!

I was so anxious to "Test" my newly assembled, modified Tri-Plug Harness for the New HTRC LiFePO4 48 Volt Charger...that I simply hooked up the 120 VAC Power Cord to the side of the Power Brick and as soon as I plugged in the Tri-Connector... the Green Power-On Light at the Rear End of the Charging Station Feature and immediately, I could smell something BURNING under the Upper Plastic Upper Cover. Uh Oh... HERE We GO... I thought.

Of course... I instantly YANKED that Friggin' Modded Tri-Plug RTF outta there and THAT calmed things down from the prior sound of ...something sizzling under there. So then I stopped and studied the situation for a moment, wondering if I had made some sort of Sad Mistake by NOT wiring up the Four Batteries in Series correctly. But recall that I had already engaged the Electric Drive Motor...Twice... and so I decided it could NOT be THAT. Still... I had to THINK about what had just occurred and I decided to Bag and Box up everything in the Back Yard and after Parking the Gear in my Arrow Shed... and finally, it was time to "Call IT a Day..."

The next morning, I made a mental review of the "Modification" I had made when Swapping that GD Golf Cart Connector over to the Clipped- Off OEM Tri-Connector and reasoned out that ADDING IN THAT THIRD PIN WIRE WAS A VERY BAD IDEA. I'm sticking with the Idea that THIS was probably where the FUBAR had started and that got me to thinking whether or not anything ELSE had gotten COOKED under there. So I "Hit The Books" by hitting up YouTube searching for other FUBAR Vidz to absorb and keep working though these issues.


More to Follow... (and The Story DOES Get BETTER!)

 

[mrrsm]

Continuing from Post # 887...

Having seen this Project head momentarily... sideways, I reviewed THESE Videos linked below to glean some more information about the Working (and Non-Working) Features wrapped up in that Power Triangular Shaped Connector.

But then I sort of -* FREAKED OUT*- for a while over the possibility of using different design of a Re-Charging Harness instead and perhaps sidestep using the Triangle Shaped Connector (or anything like it) at all. This had only occurred to me AFTER reviewing the contents of the HTRC 48 Volt DC LIFePO4 Shipping Box and its Contents.

What I saw in there prompted me to use the HTRC "Red & Black Jumper Cables Adapter Harness" and wind just...Clipping OFF those Red & Black Battery Terminal Clamps from it. Previously, I had ventured out back in the Yard to remove and loosen the Upper Black Plastic Covering under the Seat when folded forwards and investigate what it was that might have been "Cooked" under there on the prvious day.

Once I spied those "Red & Black" Small Gauge Charging Wires that lead back to the Triangular Female Charging Port...I decided to JUST GET RID OF IT and come up with a Better Idea that would provide an Alternative Light Harness to mate up with the HTRC Charging Brick, :>)

These images memorialize my use of my Hot Air-Soldering Work Station on top of a piece of Fireproof Concrete Board that I like to use from time to time on such projects. The purpose here was to *Clip* Off and save the Two Quite Excellent Battery Clamps with enough length of wires left on them to be used in another manner on another Project.

Then the idea was to mate the Red and Black Wires up with the Blue Connector Power Charging Wire Harness underneath the Back Upper Section of the Ryobi Heavy Duty Coonector.. .and thus, create a Well Made and Durable Harness that I can LEAVE attached Under the Seat...and whenever needed... Just Plug the Yellow Connector into the side of the HTRC 48 Volt DC Power Brick whenever it is necessary to Charge ALL of the LiFePO4 Battery Set of the Ryobi RELM:



What happened AFTER Creating and Installing this Adapted Harness was REMARKABLE! I mentioned in Prior Postings about the ABSOLUTE NECESSITY of Charging EACH LiFePO4 Battery INDIVIDUALLY and to its FULLEST EXTENT as indicated on the HTRC SMART LiFePO4 12 Volts DC 20 AH Charger Screen. And so I followed my own instructions to the LETTER. What this meant was that within just a few minutes after installing the other HTRC 48 Volts DC 18AH -13AH LiFePO4 Battery Charger with the New Cable illustrated below...IT ONLY TOOK A FEW MINUTES TO BRING ALL FOUR BATTERIES UP TO THEIR "FULL" LEVELS AS INDICATED ON THE CHARGER LED SCREEN!

This was REAL PROGRESS Today after having the issue with the FUBAR'd Triangular Charging Connector. Henceforth, all I need to do whenever the Four LiFEPO4 Batteries require future charging is to Raise the Seat and Un-Clip the Tie Wraps holding the New Harness in place under the Seat... Then Plug It Into the Side of the HTRC 48 Volts DC 8-13AH on those Settings and allow them to continue to Charge Until FULL.

Tomorrow is Another Day and I'll tackle the latest issue as to WHY with having Four FULLY Charged LiFEPO4 Batteries down there... that when I Turn the Key to the LEFT (or to the Right)... Nothing Happens. I'm really not too concerned about this right now, because if the Batteries or the Motors had been DAMAGED yesterday... then the New HTRC 48 Volts DC Charger would NOT have worked today as well as it did.

THESE Videos provide some more information that there ARE some alternative strategies and avenues yet to be investigated that will probably help to finally get this Ryobi Electric Lawn Mower to RUN & CUT GRASS. I suspect the alternative System By-Pass and In-Line Low Amp Fusing Methods to get "Power to The Ignition" might just do the trick.

I'm REALLY Hoping that THIS Dude's "Temporary (Permament) Solution" ... Works for ME!

More To Follow...

 

[mrrsm]

Continued from Post# Triple Eight..

THIS Is Pretty Important Information...

For anyone making the transition from the Classic AGM 100AH 48 Volts DC set-up for their Battery Powered Riding Lawn Mower ...comes an issue that can occur when the Key is Inserted and Turned to Start the Machine as whenever using the New LiFePO4 100 AH Four Battery Arrangement... An Electrical Discharge of ENORMOUS POWER can SURGE (Known as IN-RUSH) through the system and wreak havoc on certain components:

This is of course dependent upon whether or not EACH Individual LiFePO4 Battery already has a Built-In "BMS" (Battery Management System). However if NOT, there should be some kind of protection to ameliorate this problem via a Resistor Board being installed near the Right Console Harnesses that can mitigate such Electrical Discharge Disasters.

THIS is NOT a Trivial Matter. I priced out what the Latest Ryobi Model# RM480E Riding Electric Lawn Mowers are selling for now... and since I purchased mine a few years ago...the Prices have gone WAY UP to around $5,000.00... A VERY Expensive Piece of Kit, by ANYONE'S Standards. However, with "Longevity of Investment" in mind, THESE Ryobi RELM Systems when married up to these New LiFePO4 Batteries, this Mower should be capable of enduring between 4,000 to 15,000 Charge-Ups - Depleting it to Near Zero Amps - Followed by Near 100% Re-Charge Cycles... which may allow them to run for as long as 15 Years!

With all of that said... finding out WHERE an Owner can obtain one of these Easily Installable Devices might prove a little difficult... Unless or course... One watches THIS Video and makes contact with THIS Man (The Video Original Poster appearing below IS the Builder of the Device being Demonstrated) via THIS Email Address... coming courtesy the comments section where he placed his EMA at the Link to what follows:

smtgreg@gmail.com

Here is HIS Video explaining the Issues along with showing the Device and providing Step-By-Step Instructions on How To Install it on the Ryobi Model# RM480E RELM:

Here are some Screen Caps from the above Video of this Device being installed by its Creator upon his own RM480E:




If you are seriously inclined towards Improving and Protecting your own RELM Machine... Contact Greg via the above mentioned GMAIL Address. He offers these units for $50.00 (S&H Included) and will process the sale upon receipt of a Check that once cleared, will allow him to have the Device in the Mail for Shipping within Four Working Days. Considering what this Device manages to do Automatically... I think it is a worthwhile investment to ensure a good outcome for the long term prospects of the LiFePO4 Battery Upgrade & Mod.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ryobi/comments/12iv3eb

EDIT Friday, May 3rd, 2024 @08:20 PM EST:

I have made some EXCELLENT Email Dialogue with Greg over the past Day & 1/2 and upon reflection, I've decided to Order TWO of these Specialty Protective Pre-Start Resistor Devices for a Total Price Plus S&H of $100.00.

Now... Be aware that while I did NOT tell him that my only underlying concerns about getting an additional one...had to do with confronting MY own advanced age... But... if you watch his Video above...HIS Advanced Age as well. So Guys! No Hating on Age Discrimination...Okay? I'm Just Being Realistic Here... Just Sayin'.

 

[mrrsm]

This Young Lady performed an Excellent Diagnostic focused upon the Barrel Shaped Three Wire Female Copper Internal Pin Receptacles inside of the Harness Connectors of the Removable Deck Motors of her Ryobi RM480E RELM and shared this positive experience over on YouTube.

During the first time this problem occurred, she had to send the RELM off for a "Shop Bound Repair" (Likely involving an EXPENSIVE Service & Labor Charge as well) and then she was held hostage to the long wait of several months until they were able to get the Damned RM480E Mower returned.

But finally, when the problem reared up its Ugly Head for a second time, she decided to put on her 'Thinking Cap' and managed to figure out What was Causing the Problem ...On Her OWN STEAM. She aptly describes what to look for in this Video...and most importantly... She explains Precisely What to DO About It to rectify this issue.

Since there is actually a Devil's Dearth of Data on How To Repair these Ryobi Electric Riding Lawn Mowers, every Little Bit of Repair Information we can find and refer to... Helps. So Props to her for making THIS contribution:

 

[mrrsm]

I found this Most Excellent Dual Component-Electrical Harnessing Layout EVER with some close-ups for the areas that concern the Charging and Safety Circuits for this Ryobi Model# RM480E RELM just now... so it is worth dropping them all in on this Thread for the *Now* and Future Needs of anyone to refer to them:



Related to these images... While I await the arrival of Greg's Hand-Made "In-Rush" Circuit Protection Bolt-In Devices... These additional items arrived via Amazon that are in part necessary for what follows in THIS Dude's Video that shows how he "By-Passed the Electrical Cut-Off System" that if NOT working (Like the One being Replaced soon in MINE as soon as IT arrives) will NOT allow the Key-ON-RUN the Battery Power through to the Gear Box Rear Tires Drive Motor nor the Two Deck Motors to Turn the Cutting Blades:

These are "The Goodies" (The Small Funnel Kit is necessary for the "80-W90 Gear Oil Drain & Swap" for the Rear Differential that will take place AFTER the LiFEPRO4 Epic Battery Swap portion is complete AND the *Thing* is back UP and RUNNING & CUTTING again.




And finally... The Related "Electrical Cut-Off By-Pass" Video:

 

[mrrsm]

Gonna "Fire In" Four More On-Topic Videos from two other Ryobi RM480E RELM Owner-Operators who encountered some problems with the Two Deck Motor Controllers that prompted a "Knee-Jerk Purchases" of TWO Motor Controllers @ $200.00 a POP...and it as it turned out...HE DID NOT ACTUALLY NEED EITHER ONE OF THEM....and more from Two Other Electrical Engineer Professionals making their Diagnosis of the problem proved this Repair via a Controller Swap WAS VERY NECESSARY.

What apparently happened involved those Shitty Little Dinky Color Coded Controller Wiring Harness Connectors that can either break or Flex from Vibration and momentarily Lose Electrical Contact or Fail for wiring harness damage reasons ...and of course, were fairly easy to repair with Common Wire Connectors of a more Robust design.

When I was replacing my Old Drive Motor Controller just a few days ago... I noticed that even with their connectors being LARGER...I thought it very wise to Zip-Tie them ALL and then use Black Impregnated Fabric Tesa-Tape to Double Bind them for Weather and Wear Protection.

I also wanted to prevent the accidental occurrence of any Electrically ARC-ing happening from any "casual" contact happening in between the Two Sides of the Harness Matrices on the Two Small Controllers mounted on the Right Frame of the Mower from the Ordinary Actions and Vibrations induced by the natural operational environments that ALL Lawn Mowers MUST be able to Endure.

So for my OWN Peace of mind and that of @Blckshdw & any Other Members owning these Ryobi RELMS... Please... Watch THESE Videos:

Bad Ryobi Model# RM480E Blade - Deck Motor Controllers ?:

And THIS Technically Proficient VOP (Video Original Poster) describes How to Diagnose the Problem of having the Deck Motors coming to a COMPLETE STOP with Basic Equipment and by following his sound Diagnostic Approach. Suggest that we READ ALL OF THE COMMENTS AT THE VOP's YOUTUBE LINK TO THIS VIDEO:

And..."One For Old Purdue" On Topic Blade Motor Controller Diagnostic from a Very Fit Jujitsu Practicing Electrical Engineer: