The following Photo-play is excerpted from the first of these two linked videos to better describe the issues:
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(1) Even in the absence of having to remove the Driver's Side Steering Suspension Knuckle, Outer Ball Joint and Strut connection along with the Wheel, Caliper Brake and CV Half Shaft... the presence of the Support Framing prevents being able to have clear access and literally...enough Elbow Room... to work with any Bolt Extraction tools of any kind due to the lack of having any real Mechanical Advantage..
(2) The Power Rack & Pinion Unit needs to have the Inlet and Outlet ports on the Cast Manifold plugged up to prevent getting any Drill Dross (metal detritus) from invading the hydraulic oil ports.
(3) The Old Power Steering Inlet and Outlet Seals need to be gently pried out and the manifold will need a thorough Cleaning of Rust, Oil and Dirt before introducing the Brand New Seals.
(4) The Retention Bolt is
NOT an 8mm Fastener, per se... its Shank Dimensions make it an
M6 X 1.00 X 25mm 10.9 Hard Bolt that requires drilling into the center of the remaining Broken Bolt Shaft with a Very Small Left Hand Thread Drill Bit FIRST in order to see if it will unscrew it without any fanfare. If at all possible... This work is Best if Performed in a Bench Top Setting.
(5) The important thing to realize is that once the Bolt has Snapped Off...
THERE IS NO LONGER ANY STRESS BEING APPLIED IN BETWEEN THE REMAINING MALE BOLT THREADS AND THE FEMALE THREADED PORTION INSIDE OF THE POWER R&P MANIFOLD. Ergo... it should not require a great deal of counter-clockwise force to unwind the Broken Bolt Remnant.
(6) The Old Seals can be coaxed out with a Sturdy Hook and Pick Set because of the presence of a Steel Lip that you can catch hold of with little difficulty. Study these close up images to observe that when NEW SEALS are being installed... the Two Pipes must be wedged into the Manifold in order to Puncture the Seals
WITHOUT USING THE REPLACEMENT RETENTION BOLT TO DRAW THE PIPES AND RETENTION FLANGE PLATE INWARDS.
(7) Instead, Use a Long PRY BAR to gradually coax the Two Pipes and Flange Plate inwards from the TOP SIDE by applying Pressure from the Frame as a Fulcrum... just a little at a time until BOTH Pipes have penetrated well into the Rubber Seals. THEN Install the New Metric Retention Bolt and consider that it is the Rubber Seals that do the sealing ...
NOT using Excessive Torque being applied to the Pipe Flange Plate that does the work.
These Two Videos demonstrate just how tight the close quarters really are down there and thus... recommending the Removal of the Power Rack & Pinion Unit to do ALL of this work... PRIOR to Re-Installing the Unit: