P2101

Mikey71

Original poster
Member
Sep 28, 2020
6
Stillwater mn
I hope I’m in the right section. I have an 06 trailblazer and just got code 2101 which went into limp mode. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to where to start with this? Thanks I’m advance
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,481
Ottawa, ON
We have MANY threads about this:



 
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Mikey71

Original poster
Member
Sep 28, 2020
6
Stillwater mn
Thank you. I did search and read them however it didn’t seem to be my issue. I’m hoping I found the problem if it’s not the main problem it’s still a problem I am having. It’s not the best way to do things but in a pinch I’m wondering if I can cut a wire from my secondary air valve harness( I have it tied out if the way and removed system) because I have a broken wire ( pink voltage wire)on the c100 harness. It’s broke at connector and no way to splice. Junkyard is 45 minutes away and just need the car running then I could replace the wire I took. Is that feasible or am I just creating more problems. I’m hoping that’s also the cause of the code and crank occasionally start. Any advice appreciated thanks in advance
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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Check with @TJBaker57 's Linked On-Line OEM Manual Diagnostic Flow Chart for any presence of the word "SAIS" in the Step-By-Steps laid out to delve into The Actual Cause and Origin of the Problem(s).

The SAIS System is designed to function immediately after Start-Up in order to "Force Feed" in additional Oxygen Rich Air and get the Catalytic Converter to get warm enough to allow everything to go into Closed Loop with the Oxygen Sensors... ASAP.

The SAIS Solenoid mounted on the Passenger Side of the Engine Head opens and closes on a demand to allow this Air into the Exhaust Stream. Other than that event... it is very doubtful that it would do anything to cause a Limp Mode Event.

This is Important:

The "Limp Mode" default happens mainly because the PCM becomes doubtful of the following conditions. Understand this One Principle: The GM Atlas Vortec 4200 Engine manages EVERYTHING related to Making Power and Torque... by Controlling and Regulating AIR... NOT FUEL... and it rigidly examines ALL of what is on this list CONSTANTLY to BE SAFE:

(1) How Fast is the SUV Moving?
(2) What is the ACTUAL Angle of the Butterfly Plate inside of the Throttle Body?
(3) What is the ACTUAL Position of the ACC (Gas) Pedal and its Two Signal Inputs?
(4) How much AIR (By Weight in Grams Per Second) is the Intake Ingesting Per Second?
(5) What IS The Driver's ACTUAL Intent (Is The Brake Pedal Switch Activating) ?

If ANY of these issues that require AGREEMENT between the MAF, the Throttle Body, the ACC Pedal, the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) the O2 Sensors Do NOT Agree... Then for Over-Arching Safety Concerns and to Avoid a RUNAWAY ENGINE... the PCM WILL Shunt the Vehicle Speed Down to a CRAWL.

Sometimes, Limp Mode Events it can be explained by finding Hidden Broken (or Rodent Chewed) Wires in The MAF - IAT Harness and Connector (or a VERY Dirty MAF and Air Filter). Sometimes... The Throttle Body Harness will have Breaks in the Wires or hidden concealed pulled-damaged Connectors. Sometimes.. a Misbehaving ACC Pedal is at Fault. Sometimes... Rodents getting under the Hood will "Play House" and Eat or Gnaw on the Wiring and Connectors, too.

Whatever the Reason(s) are... My suggestion is that your START Looking at the Point Where the AIR comes in ...and Slowly and Carefully work your way towards the ACC Pedal. Make certain to examine the PCM Three Connectors and their Harnesses for signs of Broken Wires. THIS Link will take you to the BCM-PCM Wire Pin-Outs to refer to as needed:


Use a Bright Flashlight... Use an N-95 Face Mask and M11 Nitrile Gloves when crawling over the engine Just In Case should you see ANY signs of Mouse Droppings, Dried Mouse Urine,or any Nesting Materials, Pulled Down Hood Liner, etc... and Most Critical... READ UP ON THE DANGERS OF BECOMING INFECTED WITH THE HANTA VIRUS:


Be Suspicious... Be Fastidious while Searching with a Bright Flashlight and avoid overlooking the OBVIOUS by Pulling on Connectors and then Re-Attaching them, too.
 
Last edited:

Mikey71

Original poster
Member
Sep 28, 2020
6
Stillwater mn
Check with @TJBaker57 's Linked On-Line OEM Manual Diagnostic Flow Chart for any presence of the word "SAIS" in the Step-By-Steps laid out to delve into The Actual Cause and Origin of the Problem(s).

The SAIS System is designed to function immediately after Start-Up in order to "Force Feed" in additional Oxygen Rich Air and get the Catalytic Converter to get warm enough to allow everything to go into Closed Loop with the Oxygen Sensors... ASAP.

The SAIS Solenoid mounted on the Passenger Side of the Engine Head opens and closes on a demand to allow this Air into the Exhaust Stream. Other than that event... it is very doubtful that it would do anything to cause a Limp Mode Event.

This is Important:

The "Limp Mode" default happens mainly because the PCM becomes doubtful of the following conditions. Understand this One Principle: The GM Atlas Vortec 4200 Engine manages EVERYTHING related to Making Power and Torque... by Controlling and Regulating AIR... NOT FUEL... and it rigidly examines ALL of what is on this list CONSTANTLY to BE SAFE:

(1) How Fast is the SUV Moving?
(2) What is the ACTUAL Angle of the Butterfly Plate inside of the Throttle Body?
(3) What is the ACTUAL Position of the ACC (Gas) Pedal and its Two Signal Inputs?
(4) How much AIR (By Weight in Grams Per Second) is the Intake Ingesting Per Second?
(5) What IS The Driver's ACTUAL Intent (Is The Brake Pedal Switch Activating) ?

If ANY of these issues that require AGREEMENT between the MAF, the Throttle Body, the ACC Pedal, the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) the O2 Sensors Do NOT Agree... Then for Over-Arching Safety Concerns and to Avoid a RUNAWAY ENGINE... the PCM WILL Shunt the Vehicle Speed Down to a CRAWL.

Sometimes, Limp Mode Events it can be explained by finding Hidden Broken (or Rodent Chewed) Wires in The MAF - IAT Harness and Connector (or a VERY Dirty MAF and Air Filter). Sometimes... The Throttle Body Harness will have Breaks in the Wires or hidden concealed pulled-damaged Connectors. Sometimes.. a Misbehaving ACC Pedal is at Fault. Sometimes... Rodents getting under the Hood will "Play House" and Eat or Gnaw on the Wiring and Connectors, too.

Whatever the Reason(s) are... My suggestion is that your START Looking at the Point Where the AIR comes in ...and Slowly and Carefully work your way towards the ACC Pedal. Make certain to examine the PCM Three Connectors and their Harnesses for signs of Broken Wires. THIS Link will take you to the BCM-PCM Wire Pin-Outs to refer to as needed:


Use a Bright Flashlight... Use an N-95 Face Mask and M11 Nitrile Gloves when crawling over the engine Just In Case should you see ANY signs of Mouse Droppings, Dried Mouse Urine,or any Nesting Materials, Pulled Down Hood Liner, etc... and Most Critical... READ UP ON THE DANGERS OF BECOMING INFECTED WITH THE HANTA VIRUS:


Be Suspicious... Be Fastidious while Searching with a Bright Flashlight and avoid overlooking the OBVIOUS by Pulling on Connectors and then Re-Attaching them, too.
Thank you so much for the information I probably didn’t make myself clear. My main problem is a broken pin terminal that can’t be spliced because to short. I know how to fix properly if I had what I need but I need to move it into garage. So I’m wondering if I can take a wire with same pin and cut it and splice it onto the pink voltage wire from the c100 harness so it will start at least. Then I can get wire and terminal to fix the broken check valve wire since it’s not being used I deleted secondary air system because of so many problems I just removed pump hoses fuses block off plate and put it wrapped up aside. I just don’t know if that would be bad or not but I don’t have a terminal head and the proper crimped at this time and need to move car. The pink voltage wire is snapped off so it won’t start. Hope that makes sense I know it’s not ideal but just temporary for emergency basically thanks
 

Mikey71

Original poster
Member
Sep 28, 2020
6
Stillwater mn
Update it worked for an emergency patch. I’ll fix it properly now that in garage. Never fails either -30 or 90 degrees when I gotta work on the car no matter how I try to take care of everything when weathers nice. Thanks again
 
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