I just can't....

jmonica

Original poster
Member
Apr 2, 2013
388
Hamburg, NJ
I have to say, I am running out of steam with my Envoy, It's to the point now where I can't even keep up with the problems, one after another and I spend every weekend fixing things on it. The latest failure of the week is my passenger door won't latch. So no doubt the latch internals are broken and it's about $200+ for a new one. I have to keep the door pulled closed with a couple of bungy cords strapped to the broken parking brake lever (the cable broke) for the time being, until I can afford a new latch. I can almost guarantee it will rain every single day until I get the latch replaced.
 
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Dr.Fiero

Member
Dec 7, 2017
161
S. Alberta
As long as things are only breaking ONCE - then you're ahead of the game.
Don't confuse the previous owners lack of maintenance with anything you've done.

As for a door latch... I just replaced the one in the back door of my Sierra, and it was about $45 canadian! Check the jungle site.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,685
Tampa Bay Area, FL
:undecided: I've heard of the lock actuators failing, I even did a write up when I replaced mine years ago. Haven't heard of the actual latch failing, unless there was an impact that damaged the door. Does your door close flush, and not hold? Or does it feel like it's hitting something, and not closing all the way? (from your comment about the rain)

Shot in the dark here, but when you look at the latch from the side, which of these pics does it look like? The first one is the normal position with the door open. The 2nd and 3rd are how it's positioned when the door is closed.

20230722_102042.jpg20230722_102102.jpg20230722_102117.jpg

ETA: If yours looks like the 2nd or 3rd, try inserting a screwdriver into the gap, give some gentle pressure towards the truck, and pull the door handle lever at the same time. That should open the latch to how it should be. :twocents:
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,361
Ottawa, ON
:iagree:

If it truly is the latch, just buy an aftermarket one. Should be much cheaper. If you want even cheaper, try the pick-n-pull. Passenger doors usually don't get used as much so should be ok.
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,056
Brighton, CO
For a door latch, especially on the passenger side, I would be steeling one from a junk yard. I would truely be surprised if the latch broke. The passenger sides never fail. Just lack of use
 
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jmonica

Original poster
Member
Apr 2, 2013
388
Hamburg, NJ
Hey Guys, Thanks for all of the replies.

The problem is that the door won't latch. Had to have my Son hold his door closed on the ride home yesterday.

I took it apart today and one of the springs broke. I posted a photo of it. The pic is of a rear door latch, but the spring I have circled is the same as the one that no longer exists in mine.

Basically it wouldn't allow the latch to stay on the closed / closed position. I was able to remove the actuator and jury rig in a new spring that pushes the latch locker thing into position so at least I can fully close it. I left the door panel off and kept the door handle rods disconnected so I don't open the door by mistake.

I have previously replaced the latch mechanisms and actuators in the left rear as well as the rear hatch. Those were fairly cheap and plentiful. The front door ones seem to be a bit more expensive, with the GM one going for about $225-$250 and an aftermarket ones range from $70 to $130 approximately. I found a used one eBay and the seller was kind enough to accept my best offer of $32 shipped. It doesn't look too bad in terms of rust, so should keep me going for the time being.

I'll just have to drive around with no door panel for now. I guess its better than having to commute on the motorcycle in the pouring rain, so I can't complain.

Thanks again everyone for your replies.
 

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jmonica

Original poster
Member
Apr 2, 2013
388
Hamburg, NJ
Hey Guys, I just thought I'd post a couple of pics of the temporary fix I rigged up when my door latch wouldn't latch. Please keep in mind this was only a temp fix so that I could close the door to get home and to work.

In the area circled in red, there's supposed to be a spring that pushes that little arm on the left when the latch engages. It pushes to the left when the latch makes contact with the striker and the spring forces it back to the right, in order to allow the door to stay latched. As you can see, my spring doesn't exist. It was rusted and just feel apart.

In a jam (no pun intended), I had to find a way to get the door to latch.

The arm that I mentioned extends to the other side of the latch, so after several failed attempts to make a new reverse type spring to replace the one that broke, I decided to jam one in the other end of the arm (circled in green). I only needed it to work once, so that I could latch the door until I received the new part.

Whether or not it would have allowed the door to be opened and closed more than once, I don't know. I left all of the rods disconnected so that I didn't open it by mistake which is a total bone headed thing I might have done.

I can confirm the spring was still in place when I removed the latch so it may have worked. There's not much holding it in place though so...

I know this goes without saying but just in case, if you're in this situation, don't the door panel back on when you attempt to get the door to close if you leave the handle rods off like I did, because I don't "think" you can take the panel off when the door is closed and obviously you'll need to get your hands in there to open the door to install the new latch mechanism.

I installed the new latch and everything is back to normal finally.
 

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